Aluminum shielding tape

[Randall]

Anyone have a source for replacing or mending this? Or do you not bother? I have a 60s Ampeg Jet I would like to replace the dilapidated foil on. I am tempted to just use heavy kitchen foil and school glue.

[g1]

The stuff used in HVAC for duct work is peel and stick. I think you can get various thicknesses, just search for aluminum duct tape.

[ric]

I use the aluminum duct tape for guitars. Be aware that the adhesive is not a good conductor, so you will have no continuity between pieces, even with an overlap. I pierce the overlaps until I get continuity. That works for my own equipment, it may not be a look you want.
If you do, a leather stitch layout wheel works well. A sewing pattern transfer wheel doesn't hold up, but works.

[rjb]

I pierce the overlaps until I get continuity. That works for my own equipment, it may not be a look you want.
If you do, a leather stitch layout wheel works well. A sewing pattern transfer wheel doesn't hold up, but works.

Just wondering if you've re-checked continuity after a day, a week, a year? (Aluminum quickly develops an insulating oxide surface layer.)

-rb

[nevetslab]

I've been using Aluminum flashing, found at stores like Home Depot. It's 0.010" thick, the roll I bought is 8" wide, maybe 25 ft in length...I forget.. I use an Arrow Staple Gun to attach it to inside surfaces of guitar and bass amps when I have to replace severely damaged adhesive-backed foil. Not as convenient as adhesive backed, but once installed, I never have trouble with it again.

[Chuck H]

No offence to anyone intended, these are only my experiences. The duct tape is coated to minimize oxidation so it's a PITA if you need continuity. Aluminum flashing can rattle in combo's if it's not tight and at the very least it can ripple on the edges and make future removal and install a PITA. School glue is no good because it will become brittle with age and let go of the foil. I use rubber cement and plain HD kitchen foil.

[Bloomfield]

I agree with the comments on the aluminum tape; the adhesive is a pretty good insulator from what I've seen. If you have a stained glass shop around, you can get copper foil in sheets like 11 x 17" or so for not a whole lot, maybe $10 or 15. Also copper foil tape in various widths. The adhesive is very thin (and very sticky) and seems to conduct well enough. Of course you can always solder the seams if you're so inclined. It's great shielding for guitar cavities. For big flat surfaces like an amp cabinet, sheet metal stapled on works great.

Andy

[nevetslab]

No offense taken. In the number of amps I've installed aluminum flashing, cut to size, pre-punched for the chassis mtg screws, it gets stapled every 3/4 inch across the span of front and rea, and ends inside panel surfaces, then the staples pounded flush so there's no protrusion to catch the chassis. Tight fit, no ripple, no buzzing.. Of course, if sloppily installed, it could do as you suggest. At any rate, replacing ripped up aluminum foil surfaces is a PITA. Now that Ampeg has been using that on the bottom surface of SVT-CL, -VR & -AV bass amps, the chassis on those amps have cage nuts, which rip the foil badly when removing the chassis from the case. The damage begins at the factory when they slide the chassis INTO the cabinet, producing three small bundles of torn aluminum foil.

[J M Fahey]

FWIW I glue kitchen grade aluminum straight to wood with contact cement, part of it even gets covered with Tolex
To guarantee contact at later time, I make a bubble gum sized ball of same thin paper and staple it to main aluminum sheet, then solder a grounding wire to staple.
Using just a bare staple has become unreliable after some years, but the crumbled aluminum ball which is crushed between glued sheet and staple has enough elasticity and multiple contact points to hold forever.

[stokes]

I use copper foil tape.I believe stew-mac has it.I got some on ebay in various widths,from 1" up to 4".The adhesive is conductive.I use the narrower stuff for sheilding guitars,the 4" for sheilding amps.

[ric]

Just wondering if you've re-checked continuity after a day, a week, a year? (Aluminum quickly develops an insulating oxide surface layer.)

-rb

Yes I have, and all seems ok.

[Chuck H]

I use copper foil tape.I believe stew-mac has it.I got some on ebay in various widths,from 1" up to 4".The adhesive is conductive.I use the narrower stuff for sheilding guitars,the 4" for sheilding amps.

I use to buy the stuff from shops that sell stained glass craft supplies (before the internet, when such places still existed ).

[ric]

I use to buy the stuff from shops that sell stained glass craft supplies (before the internet, when such places still existed ).

That's an idea. I think the place down the street may still be in business. Drive by a thousand times and never notice.
Trouble with guitar supply places is a screwdriver or anything else you can get elsewhere for a reasonable price is suddenly worth big bucks because it's a guitar tool / part. Chaps my....uh it bothers me.

[Chuck H]

That's an idea. I think the place down the street may still be in business. Drive by a thousand times and never notice.
Trouble with guitar supply places is a screwdriver or anything else you can get elsewhere for a reasonable price is suddenly worth big bucks because it's a guitar tool / part. Chaps my....uh it bothers me.

With the internet, things like adhesive backed copper tape are sold cheaper when found without specialized application (as you noted re:"guitar screwdrivers") I use to get the adhesive backed copper foil at the glass shops in something like 1" and 4". It was not laminated (so no conductivity problems) and it DID carry a premium because it was for glass work. I haven't looked at what's available now, but I'm pretty sure it would be more reasonable in price and more questionable in suitability

[big_teee]

I bought a roll of this in 3 inch a few years ago.
https://www.amazon.com/Tapes-Master-...H8PMJ1K193F6VP
I have shielded a ton of pickups, and guitar cavities with it.
I like it cause you can over lap it and solder it easily, even over plastic, if your fast.
I still have most of the roll left, and I keep it sealed in a plastic zip lock bag.
T