Aluminum shielding tape

[ric]

@ Chuck: the guitar supply's radius gauges, radiused sanding blocks and straight edge- great, used em for years. Their Les Paul knurled nut tool- the little wires in it are sloppily put in so it doesn't grab well and the handle was so small i put a bigger one on it...not so great. So no guarantee the long dollar buys the good stuff every time, is there.

Checking around with others who actually use the stuff is best, and this place is a real good resource for suppliers and how-to.

Thanks

@ Terry: that looks like the place to get the real stuff and not have to pay the the big Guitar Tape mark up.

Thanks

[Chuck H]

Copper foil tip:

The last time I shielded a guitar with adhesive backed copper I didn't rely on continuity through the adhesive at overlaps so I put a dab of solder across each seem. Not the whole seam, just a dot to electronically connect the sheets. Because the copper isn't coated the solder took with no trouble at all.

[Steve A.]

I used to buy 4"×10" sheets of copper foil from GC at the local electronics supply house (remember those?!?) but the adhesive was not electrically conductive. The tape from StewMac was a big step up but I sure like the prices un the Amazon listing that Terry posted. 36 *yards* for $37... wow! (I wonder how the thickness compares to StewMac's.)

I usually go overboard with the solder and when I'm done you don't see *any* copper in the guitar cavity. So if Superman tries to use his xray vision to reverse engineer my custom wiring harnesses he is tough sh*t out of luck!

Steve A.

P.S. As for guitar amps if sliding the chassis in and out can tear the aluminum or copper foil tape I use aluminum flashing stapled and glued to the wood. (I don't want shards of a metal tape shorting out the circuitry.)