Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hot Rod Deville - No reverb, no drive channel, no master volume

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Hot Rod Deville - No reverb, no drive channel, no master volume

    Hey All!

    I've read through all the threads multiple times and have picked up a few ways to figure this one out.

    The amp switching does not work. LED does not light at all. Master volume, reverb and channel switch all have no effect when knobs are turned or button is pressed.

    The previous owner swapped R78 and R79 for 5W 300ohm resistors (as indicated on the schematic I found). This did not fix the issue. These test as 330ohms with my mulitmeter. A lot of other posts mention -16.6v and -16.6v is the voltages you want to see when testing the resistors. With the amp on I get -15.7v on r79. nothing on r78.

    I checked for continuity to make sure the resistors are making connection to the board and everything tests OK. even though the trace to D13 from r78 looks scratched.

    On the other side of the resistors where the connect to the caps
    -32.6v R79
    +30v R78

    I checked the dual LED and both sides light up.

    What's next?

    Thanks in advance. This forum is an amazing asset and I have learned so much.

    EDIT: Here's a pic of the resistors. Could the color mismatch on the ink suggest anything?

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4084[1].JPG
Views:	1
Size:	1.81 MB
ID:	873273
    Last edited by Fuzzy Slippers; 01-26-2018, 07:30 PM.

  • #2
    My guess is the the 16v zener diode is a short. Power down and check resistance across it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by lowell View Post
      My guess is the the 16v zener diode is a short. Power down and check resistance across it.
      It measures .7 ohms. Is that a yes?

      I see that it's a 1n5353B. Do I need that exact number to replace it or can I use another 5w 16v diode?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Fuzzy Slippers View Post
        It measures .7 ohms. Is that a yes?

        I see that it's a 1n5353B. Do I need that exact number to replace it or can I use another 5w 16v diode?
        The diode could be bad, but the filter cap could also be the cause of the short. Remove one end of the diode from the pc board and test it with your meter to see if the diode or the circuit is the problem.

        Any 16 volt 5 watt diode will work.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by 52 Bill View Post
          The diode could be bad, but the filter cap could also be the cause of the short. Remove one end of the diode from the pc board and test it with your meter to see if the diode or the circuit is the problem.

          Any 16 volt 5 watt diode will work.
          Pulled one end off. and I'm getting .7ohms. Do we have a bingo?!?!??

          Comment


          • #6
            Replace the shorted diode.
            Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

            Comment


            • #7
              Purchased a replacement diode. Will update when it is delivered and installed. Thank you guys so much!

              Comment


              • #8
                Sorry I've been absent from this thread. Sounds like you're on track.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Replaced diode. I am now getting +16 and -16 on r79 and r78 but still the channel LED does not light and reverb/master volume is still dead.

                  What's next?

                  @52 bill: should I check caps next? if so how do i do that?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Red/green channel LED must also be good in order for switching system to work.
                    --
                    I build and repair guitar amps
                    http://amps.monkeymatic.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by xtian View Post
                      Red/green channel LED must also be good in order for switching system to work.
                      as stated above LED tests good.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Have you looked at the list of voltage measurements shown in the long chart in the schematic on this amp? It is very thorough and shows the voltages you need to have in order to get the two relays K1 & K2 to pull in which selecting Drive Mode from Normal mode. Drive and More Drive only use the Master Volume. U3, Q3 and Q4 along with some zener diodes all need to be working for the channel switching to take place, then the two JFETS QQ1 and Q2 work to put the amp into More Drive mode.

                        I've posted the Hot Rod DeVille Service Manual below:

                        Hot Rod DeVille Svc Manual.pdf
                        Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The caps aren't the issue if you have +/-16v.

                          Check voltages on the reverb opamp pins 1-3 and 5-8 and list them here. I bet it's bad.

                          Your bipolar power supply is good. So the reverb doesn't work because the circuit has a fault. First suspect is that opamp.
                          Start there.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lowell View Post
                            The caps aren't the issue if you have +/-16v.

                            Check voltages on the reverb opamp pins 1-3 and 5-8 and list them here. I bet it's bad.

                            Your bipolar power supply is good. So the reverb doesn't work because the circuit has a fault. First suspect is that opamp.
                            Start there.
                            I think the reverb opamp is u2: BA4560

                            1 .02v
                            2 .02v
                            3 .01v
                            5 .002v
                            5 after r46 as indicated on the schematic .002v
                            6 .003v
                            7 -.001v
                            8 16.6v

                            what does TP on the schemtic mean? I googled and got nothing.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              TP = Test Point
                              "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X