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Hilgen Troubador T-1506 grounded plug/biasing
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Grounded plug and wiring- yes
Remove C18- yes
Bias- measure the voltage drop across the shared cathode resistor, use ohms law to find current, divide by two to approximate each tube (assuming they are somewhat matched). If you want to change bias, change the resistor value."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostGrounded plug and wiring- yes
Remove C18- yes
Bias- measure the voltage drop across the shared cathode resistor, use ohms law to find current, divide by two to approximate each tube (assuming they are somewhat matched). If you want to change bias, change the resistor value.If you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Originally posted by shortcircuit View PostThe Dude you are great , open thy eyes and see !! Thank YouIf you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Originally posted by shortcircuit View Post........my 125ohm shared resistor measures .8 and the 25uf cap 0 , current limiter is lit......"I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Originally posted by The Dude View Post.8 what? Ohms, voltage drop, etc. 0 what? Ohms, voltage drop, etc. The two are paralleled, so the readings don't make sense? Please explain what you measured and how- in circuit out of circuit, voltage, resistance, other.If you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Originally posted by shortcircuit View PostI'm sorry, actual resistor reading .8 ohms in circuit connected as close to the body of the resistor as possible, cap also measured in circuit on 200u scale climbs then reads 1 , voltage reading across the resistor at idle was .157vdc . does this make even less sense??If you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Resistors almost never short. I suspect your cathode cap (that is paralleled with that resistor) is shorted. I'd pull it out of circuit and check it's resistance to be sure."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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That^^^
In 60 plus years of soldering, I have never encountered a shorted resistor.
If not the cap shorted, look for a solder bridge from the cathode socket pins to ground or maybe heater.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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With the cap disconnected measure the resistor value. If it's OK (125ohms) power up the amp and measure the voltage across the resistor and the plate voltage. It will run OK without the cap to check the bias. If the EL84s are running too hot the resistor could be changed to 150ohms
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostResistors almost never short. I suspect your cathode cap (that is paralleled with that resistor) is shorted. I'd pull it out of circuit and check it's resistance to be sure.If you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Yes, I would stay close to that value- you can use a higher voltage cap if that's what you have. It won't hurt anything. Also, if the cap is mounted near the resistor, be sure to keep the new one away as much as possible. Heat from that resistor will age the cap more quickly. The large resistor was chosen simply for it's ability to dissipate the power created in that circuit."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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No one making cathode biased amps are expecting anyone to "rebias" it. That requires circuit modification. The selected the value for likely good operation with most any proper tubes installed.
heat is a big cap killer. Mount your replacement cap spaced away from the resistor to keep the resistor heat off the cap.
Unless you have specific performance goals requiring change, I'd stick with the stock cap value. You can use higher voltage if you wish, no problem, but the voltage on the cap is not usually very high.
Aha: Duded just beat me to it.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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