Originally posted by Dave H
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Hilgen Troubador T-1506 grounded plug/biasing
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Originally posted by Enzo View PostNo one making cathode biased amps are expecting anyone to "rebias" it. That requires circuit modification. The selected the value for likely good operation with most any proper tubes installed.
heat is a big cap killer. Mount your replacement cap spaced away from the resistor to keep the resistor heat off the cap.
Unless you have specific performance goals requiring change, I'd stick with the stock cap value. You can use higher voltage if you wish, no problem, but the voltage on the cap is not usually very high.
Aha: Duded just beat me to it.If you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Originally posted by shortcircuit View Postnow have 3.87vdc across the resistor at idle and 175vdc is where the voltage settles on both el84 at pin 7
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Originally posted by Dave H View PostThose voltages are too low. What resistance is there between pin 3 of the EL84s and ground. It should be 125ohms (the common cathode resistor value)If you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Ok, then do as Dave suggested and measure the cathode resistor in circuit. If it measures correctly, pull the output tubes, power up, and see if your plate voltage comes up closer to the correct voltage. You could have a bad output tube and that may be what started the whole mess."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Oops, you snuck in while I was typing. Ok, the resistor seems fine. Try the second part of my post. Pull the tubes and check B+. If it comes up with tubes removed, install tubes one at time monitoring B+. See if you can find one that pulls the voltage down."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostOops, you snuck in while I was typing. Ok, the resistor seems fine. Try the second part of my post. Pull the tubes and check B+. If it comes up with tubes removed, install tubes one at time monitoring B+. See if you can find one that pulls the voltage down.If you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Do you have a rectifier tube to sub in? Maybe it's giving up under load.
FWIW: If a tube tester says a tube is bad, it's bad. If it says the tube is good, it might still be bad. Most testers don't use real world voltages for accurate testing.
Also, you're not on a light bulb limiter or other limiting device, are you?"I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostDo you have a rectifier tube to sub in? Maybe it's giving up under load.
FWIW: If a tube tester says a tube is bad, it's bad. If it says the tube is good, it might still be bad. Most testers don't use real world voltages for accurate testing.
Also, you're not on a light bulb limiter or other limiting device, are you?If you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Forget the rectifer. Remove the light bulb limiter. That is likely the problem. When the amp starts to draw current, the voltage will go down when using the limiter. That's its job. After the amp is fixed, you no longer need the limiter."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostForget the rectifer. Remove the light bulb limiter. That is likely the problem. When the amp starts to draw current, the voltage will go down when using the limiter. That's its job. After the amp is fixed, you no longer need the limiter.If you don't know where your going any road'll take you there : George Harrison
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Even if just for testing, most any cap would work for those cathodes. Just tack solder a part in there. Got a 22uf 500v filter cap handy? That would work. We only want to see what difference it makes, not a permanent install. You can get a more pleasing part later.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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