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Peavey Max 112 Bass Chassis Removal?

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  • Peavey Max 112 Bass Chassis Removal?

    Trying to remove the chassis for servicing and it looks like the speaker cable is soldered to the chassis board. I do not want to bother removing the front grill and speaker to free that cable so I am just going to cut the speaker cable to get the chassis out.

    Anyone worked on these? Am I missing something?

    Thank you. MC

  • #2
    Missing something?
    No.

    "removing the front grill and speaker to free that cable"

    In fact, that is what you have to do sometimes.

    Comment


    • #3
      I was surprised because I have been used to seeing a removable connector on similar types of Peavey combo chassis units.

      Thank you

      Comment


      • #4
        Not too well versed in that unit.

        Seeing that it is a bass combo, Peavey may have chosen not to use terminals, as they may vibrate off.

        Or someone else may have soldered them on.

        Comment


        • #5
          And since that speaker is removed with just a handful of screws, they left it simple.
          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

          Comment


          • #6
            Sorry for so late.... I just Googled your response as I'm working on the same amp right now.

            The amp comes out if you first remove the four Phillips screws on top of the cab - not the handle screws ----

            Then remove the back 4 screws around the power inlet at the back of the cab - and you'll find that the 120VAC spades are soldered onto the adapter, although the ground (green wire) is not.

            You can take that whole assembly apart if you want to totally remove the amplifier to a bench and not have the cab still attached - but it's not entirely necessary.

            Leave the speaker alone - it is protected under the grill and I think it's best to leave it that way.

            The amp has two more screws on the faceplate that need to be removed - these are out near - but not hidden by - the chrome covers on the top/front corners. Take these screws out and that's all the screws that need to come out.

            NOW all you have to do is wrestle with the double-sided foam tape that Peavey puts on top of the amp where it slides under the top of the cab. I take a cake frosting spatula and gently slip it - slowly - as the tape releases it's death grip on the cab inside area. Any scratches on the black panel that you create here won't be noticeable.

            Nothing will fall off or hit the floor - since even after the tape is released, the amp head is still rather captive. Gently pull the amp out of thw cab like a drawer - making sure to keep it elevate sufficiently to avoid damage to the capacitors that stick UP (DOWN actually) and can get caught on the cabinet face.

            The wires are captive with some Pan-Duits® (tie-wraps) and these can be clipped if you like - just replace them afterwards.

            My problem is a lot of noise when I first turn the amp on - and I know it's a bad capacitor - more than likely anyway. I'll be looking for a swollen or leaky cap. Don't mistake the hot glue that Peavey uses to Siamese the caps together to keep them from rattling inside the cab. That's just one more barrier to taking them off if you need to.

            Typically - all Peavey amps come apart pretty much this same way. I've had a bunch of their PAs and guitar amps and a few combo amps and they all used the 'works-on-a-tray" that comes out as an assembly much the same way.

            HTH - although it IS rather late in the game for you I bet. Sorry.

            Comment

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