Fender Frontman 212R obsolete pot

[Randall]

FM 212R took a face plant and broke the treble pot shaft off. Now the clean channel doesn't work. If I jumper the cap C4 before the pot to the resistor R13 after the pot R10 I get sound. Lifting both shows 48K ohms on the outside legs of pot R10, but open on either side to wiper. That B50K snap in apparently no longer exists, neither does the audio taper version.

So, I ask you, what to do? Should I install a pair of 27K resistors from the wiper to either outside leg to approximate the pot being in the middle? Or 22K?

[The Dude]

I would just find another pot and solder it in with jumper wires. I've had to do this in the past. Be aware, if you do so, some fender amps use the snap in part to jumper ground from trace to trace. You may have to install jumper wires where the snap in part was.

[Randall]

To answer my own question I did try the resistors, but then realized they were in parallel with the pot trace. So I pulled the pot, opened it up and cleaned it and re-tensioned the wiper, and set it at 12:00, and voila! Pretty sure the customer will be happy enough with that, he doesn't want to spend but a pittance.

[Enzo]

Aside from the snap-in brackets, isn't this just a plain old 16mm pot? Any 50kB 16mm pot will work, it doesn't have to have the bracket. Got one in your Marshall drawer?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...l2Inpj7Y2HQ%3d

Some fender amps use the brackets to complete a ground circuit across the front. If this amp is like that, a simple jumper will fix that.

Ah, I see Dude already mentioned that.

[Jazz P Bass]

Possible replacement, although it is a 'D' shaft: https://www.guitar-parts.com/catalog...snap-50k-34719

Edit: this guy has the item: http://darrenriley.com/store/fender-...0r-0062680000/

[Randall]

No that's not the same part. Already scoured the net, including Riley.

[J M Fahey]

Absolute worst case, do it the Argentine way:
1) use a plain vanilla 16 mm pot, the most common one and of which you certainly have a few.
2) slightly sand/scratch pot case to make soldering easier and connect 2 pieces of stiff Brass wire (somewhat thicker than a standard resistor leg) from body to PCB bracket holes, this both restore some mechanical rigidity and completes some track path if wings were used for that.
3) if your shaft is striated/round and knob needs a D shape one, a few seconds with a grinder can take care of it.
You might need to shim the shaft slot with a piece of plastic sheet to give it a little more stiffness and/or add a little paper or Scotchb tape to make it thicker, if it "dances" inside the knob hole.

Takes less to do than writing this and definitely faster than waiting for the proper part to arrive by Mail.

Just an option if you can NOT get the proper part.

Still faster than

[Enzo]

How about the part I linked?

[Randall]

"How about the part I linked?"

11 week lead time. Given this guys take on things, not going to work.

[Enzo]

Look two lines up from the lead time, 1734 in stock now, immediate shipment.

The 11 weeks lead time is if you are an OEM and want to order 10,000 of them.