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Need help learning - Conn StroboTUNER ST-2

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  • Need help learning - Conn StroboTUNER ST-2

    Hi all,
    I obtained a Conn strobotuner ST-2 from the mid 1950's in non-working condition. It is an interesting piece of equipment with a microphone primarily for tuning a piano. It apparently can accurately tune each note in 7 different octaves. As was reported to me the strobe tuner was accidentally left plugged in and powered on for an unknown period of time. Carefully and safely, I have plugged the device in using the 2 prong power cord. I checked the chassis voltage with respect to the household ground at the wall outlet.

    Here is what I found on the chassis:
    Power switch off:
    91 volts ac with 2 prong plug in orientation A
    3 volts ac with 2 prong plug reversed to orientation B
    Power switch on:
    210 volts ac orientation A
    125 volts ac orientation B

    This can't be good. Luckily I know how to safely work around this but I will not use it or be comfortable working with it until I understand what the problem might be.

    I did see that all of the tubes were glowing except for one. This tube was a 6X4 rectifier tube. I have a new one ordered but will not install until I understand what is happening with the hot chassis.

    Now for the help that I need. I understand how to be safe with working on electronics. I know how to discharge capacitors. I know how to use a multimeter. I fairly well understand how current flows through a circuit. I even know the basic function of many of the components of a circuit. This might be near the limit to my understanding however. That said, I don't understand what might be causing the hot chassis or how to isolate the problem. I also don't know how to identify the reason for the 6x4 tube not powering up (I assume this is the likely reason the unit doesn't work).

    I could easily take this to a technician to fix it but I would learn nothing except how to spend $100 on something that is worth $100. I want to learn! I only know one person that has any experience with vacuum tube electronics. This is an nice older gentleman that goes to church with me. Nearly every Sunday for the past 2 years he has introduced himself to me as "Bob with one O" and asked me my name. I love the old guy but I think he is 90.

    Trying to learn, I understand that that a leaky cap may be the culprit. Am I correct? Should I proceed with a re-cap job?
    I don't think a bad rectifier tube would cause this. Am I correct?

    I feel that I should install a 3 prong/3 wire power cord for safety. Would you agree? Should it be wired as follows?
    Ground (green) to chassis
    Hot (black) to power switch
    Neutral (white) to the transformer
    Do I understand correctly that this wiring orientation is to ensure that there is no interruption by the switch from discharging the circuit when the power switch is off?

    I will attach a circuit schematic for this model that also has a parts list.

    Please help me learn. I want to know. I will throw this strobe tuner in the trash before I take it to someone to fix it for me. I wanted it only to learn. I don't really need it. It is overkill for tuning my guitar.
    Sorry for the long post

    Thank you!
    Stephen

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Put a three wire cord on it, and don't look back...

    The strobe tuner has two sections, the strobe, and the motor drive. You plug a mic or guitar into the input, and the signal flashes the neon bulbs in time. They shine on the spinning disc.

    The other half is a power oscillator to drive the disc motor. By selecting a note with the switch, you alter the frequency the thing spins.

    SO both sides have to work, and you determnine what is going wrong with that in mind. For example, spinning the note switch will have zero effect on the neon lights.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

    Comment


    • #3
      Enzo, thank you for your fast reply. I will be ordering some 3 conductor cord tomorrow. I will install it Ground (green) to chassis,
      Hot (black) to power switch,Neutral (white) to the transformer unless you tell me otherwise. I figured this would make it safer to work on and I appreciate your verification of this. I will then check the chassis voltage again and install the replacement 6X4 tube to see what happens. If there are still problems I will repost as I figure out more info.
      Thanks.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by heapes View Post
        Enzo, thank you for your fast reply. I will be ordering some 3 conductor cord tomorrow. I will install it Ground (green) to chassis,
        Hot (black) to power switch,Neutral (white) to the transformer unless you tell me otherwise. I figured this would make it safer to work on and I appreciate your verification of this. I will then check the chassis voltage again and install the replacement 6X4 tube to see what happens. If there are still problems I will repost as I figure out more info.
        Thanks.
        Do you have an old computer cord? Just cut end off strip and solder ends.

        nosaj

        I hope to be getting one soon also.
        soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

        Comment


        • #5
          FWIW: I often just hack the end of an IEC cable that's laying around.

          Edit: I see nosaj beat me to it.
          "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

          Comment


          • #6
            If you are getting 90vac on the chassis with the power switch OFF, then it sounds to me like there is a leaky ground capacitor that is not reflected by the schematic. Do you see a cap where the AC cord comes in, with one leg connected to one of the AC wires and the other to chassis? If you do, cut it out from the chassis, and definitely install a 3 wire AC cord with the wiring you mentioned. I don't think that wiring has anything to do with discharging the circuit, it is just modern day good practice to switch the hot side.

            I would replace the electrolytic caps too, as a routine matter. Then see where you are.
            It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Randall View Post
              If you are getting 90vac on the chassis with the power switch OFF, then it sounds to me like there is a leaky ground capacitor that is not reflected by the schematic. Do you see a cap where the AC cord comes in, with one leg connected to one of the AC wires and the other to chassis? If you do, cut it out from the chassis, and definitely install a 3 wire AC cord with the wiring you mentioned. I don't think that wiring has anything to do with discharging the circuit, it is just modern day good practice to switch the hot side.

              I would replace the electrolytic caps too, as a routine matter. Then see where you are.
              Unplug the unit and use an ohmmeter to test for any continuity between the chassis and any of the power transformer windings.

              Comment


              • #8
                Randall, thank you. I will check for this capacitor today when I get home from work. Also, I would like to replace some of the caps as well. I may leave them for now until I can iron out a few of the problems and replace the power cord. Thanks for your help. I cant wait to get home and work on it.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by 52 Bill View Post
                  Unplug the unit and use an ohmmeter to test for any continuity between the chassis and any of the power transformer windings.
                  52 Bill, thanks. I will give this a try. I assume I need to unsolder the input and the output leads from the circuit to test for continuity to the chassis. This shouldn't be a problem as it is easy to get to. Continuity with the input lead and the chassis would indicate a short to ground with the windings correct? This would be an explanation for a hot chassis right? Thanks

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If there are any motor start or motor run caps in this unit, make sure you don't replace them with the wrong type.
                    Originally posted by Enzo
                    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by g1 View Post
                      If there are any motor start or motor run caps in this unit, make sure you don't replace them with the wrong type.
                      Thanks, I will watch for that closely. I know there are several components that if replaced the unit needs to be recalibrated. I have a list of these somewhere and will certainly avoid them.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Calibrated? You calibrate the thing every time you turn it on. There is a zero tune function.
                        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Enzo View Post
                          Calibrated? You calibrate the thing every time you turn it on. There is a zero tune function.
                          I may be confusing this model with something I read about another model. There is a pot on the chassis with what seems to be a lock nut and screwdriver slot for factory setting a calibration. This is in addition to the calibration pot on the faceplate. I will try to find out what it's for but not change it.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by heapes View Post
                            Here is what I found on the chassis:
                            Power switch off:
                            91 volts ac with 2 prong plug in orientation A
                            3 volts ac with 2 prong plug reversed to orientation B
                            Power switch on:
                            210 volts ac orientation A
                            125 volts ac orientation B
                            On the chassis with respect to what?????
                            Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Household ground at the wall outlet. I suspect it is just ghost voltage that will disappear when 3prong cord installed and chassis grounded.
                              Originally posted by Enzo
                              I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                              Comment

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