A GK 2001RB arrived at my shop yesterday morning from The Voice. The complaint was in Bridge Mono mode, driving an 810 4-ohm cabinet, it's going into Protect mode (flashing Orange LED). They already have one of our 2001RB's as back-up, which I'd serviced recently. So, sure, I'll dig into this one and see what this one wants. This is a Rev B2 main power amp PCB, though I couldn't find any date codes on exposed components.
I wasn't able to drive it into protect mode, though not using a speaker cabinet (all I have in the shop is a 4 ohm Ampeg 15" cab and an 8 ohm Hartke 15" cab), so I used my high wattage dummy loads. Started by verifying all the power supply voltages were correct, no DC offset voltages on the output. Under drive, looked first in Dual Mono mode, 1 ch at a time to see I had sufficient output (clips around 40VAC out/4 ohms). Then, set it into Bridge Mono mode, stacked up the loads for 4 ohm/2kW, as it is capable of 1kW into 4 ohms. I ran it with 50Hz 1/3 Oct Pink Noise, which is really variable-amplitude 50Hz sine, set it for periodic clipping, while average output level was around 30VAC. I was seeing periodic current draw greater than 12A. I let it run for quite a while, with thermocouple on the heat sinks. I got the fans to full speed quickly, and, interestingly, the Right Ch was running around 78 deg C on the heat sink, while the Left Ch only 56 deg C. Temp on the surfaces of the three bridges of each channel....those on the Right Ch were 10 deg hotter than the Left Ch. I didn't stop to monitor each output channel under this condition, since it was random amplitude.
It never did go into protect. So, I pulled the amp apart, knowing I was probably going to be dealing with solder joints in the power supply area. GK is NOT one of my favorite amps to service with regards to dealing with poor solder joints, particularly in the power supply. The are an excellent example of how NOT to do solder masks nor providing adequate solder pad sizes for high current components!!
This is the Left Ch power supply, top and bottom. Right Ch is no better. While there is current flow, and it hasn't coughed up on the bench just yet, I'm suspicious of the voids I see on the top side of the three bridge rectifier leads, and see similar voids on two of the leads on the bottom side of the middle low voltage bridge. Same on the right ch.
I just have NO idea WHY GK would produce their PCB's with the tiniest solder mask openings where you need good solder wicking onto the high current component leads. They didn't do so bad on the power supply caps, though they're not a great example of how to do it there either, but........geeze! Just to get AT the top side terminals to un-solder then re-solder the three bridge leads, you've got to remove the filter caps. There is enough room to get in at the middle LV bridge, but once again......look at the size of the exposed plated copper!
I haven't yet pulled the Protect board out for inspection. That's next, and will have a look at it before I dive into address what I see on the two power supply areas.
2001RB_Power_Amp.pdf
2001RB_Switch_Board.pdf
I wasn't able to drive it into protect mode, though not using a speaker cabinet (all I have in the shop is a 4 ohm Ampeg 15" cab and an 8 ohm Hartke 15" cab), so I used my high wattage dummy loads. Started by verifying all the power supply voltages were correct, no DC offset voltages on the output. Under drive, looked first in Dual Mono mode, 1 ch at a time to see I had sufficient output (clips around 40VAC out/4 ohms). Then, set it into Bridge Mono mode, stacked up the loads for 4 ohm/2kW, as it is capable of 1kW into 4 ohms. I ran it with 50Hz 1/3 Oct Pink Noise, which is really variable-amplitude 50Hz sine, set it for periodic clipping, while average output level was around 30VAC. I was seeing periodic current draw greater than 12A. I let it run for quite a while, with thermocouple on the heat sinks. I got the fans to full speed quickly, and, interestingly, the Right Ch was running around 78 deg C on the heat sink, while the Left Ch only 56 deg C. Temp on the surfaces of the three bridges of each channel....those on the Right Ch were 10 deg hotter than the Left Ch. I didn't stop to monitor each output channel under this condition, since it was random amplitude.
It never did go into protect. So, I pulled the amp apart, knowing I was probably going to be dealing with solder joints in the power supply area. GK is NOT one of my favorite amps to service with regards to dealing with poor solder joints, particularly in the power supply. The are an excellent example of how NOT to do solder masks nor providing adequate solder pad sizes for high current components!!
This is the Left Ch power supply, top and bottom. Right Ch is no better. While there is current flow, and it hasn't coughed up on the bench just yet, I'm suspicious of the voids I see on the top side of the three bridge rectifier leads, and see similar voids on two of the leads on the bottom side of the middle low voltage bridge. Same on the right ch.
I just have NO idea WHY GK would produce their PCB's with the tiniest solder mask openings where you need good solder wicking onto the high current component leads. They didn't do so bad on the power supply caps, though they're not a great example of how to do it there either, but........geeze! Just to get AT the top side terminals to un-solder then re-solder the three bridge leads, you've got to remove the filter caps. There is enough room to get in at the middle LV bridge, but once again......look at the size of the exposed plated copper!
I haven't yet pulled the Protect board out for inspection. That's next, and will have a look at it before I dive into address what I see on the two power supply areas.
2001RB_Power_Amp.pdf
2001RB_Switch_Board.pdf
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