Fender Twin Reverb 2012 (new) - blown 10A fuse / short - arc between plate and filament 6L6

[Leo_Gnardo]

After all, all oldstyle Fender amps did not have a heating fuse.

Exactly! Not only Fenders, but every brand there is / was. This a place where I replace the pesky randomly blowing fuse with a short length of stout wire.

Filament fuses are there, as far as I can tell, to satisfy the safety requirements of some countries/markets that demand every sub circuit has a fuse. In some cases, even the bias supply is fused. . Real treat, when that one packs up. Or corrodes to the point it won't conduct...

[spunko]

Thanks for all the answers.
I've read the other thread, cool stuff, the mod seems really interesting. I'm going to try with a normal 10A fuse. The amp will be giging all night long for 3 nigths straigth, so maybe I will keep some spares, or put a higher one.

Does somebody have the updated schematic?

[vintagekiki]

I replace the pesky randomly blowing fuse with a short length of stout wire.

Exactly so

[g1]

I don't think a normal 10A will be reliable there. They have specified T10A for a reason. As I said before, the turn on surge is much higher than the working current once the filaments are stabilized.

[frus]

It will probably blow right before the gig starts

[vintagekiki]

'65 Twin Reverb Reissue with Rev. C ... G

Does somebody have the updated schematic?

https://music-electronics-forum.com/showthread.php?t=44946&p=463959&viewfull=1#post463959

[g1]

Look in the last pages for that schematic (post #21) for the later revisions. G is on page 16.

[spunko]

I have installed a fast blow 20A which was the highest you can find here, and ordered a pack of 5 T10A.
Do you think the fast 20A fuse will last?
If not, I will put some heavy wire