Fender frontman 212r input jack sourcing and PCB pad repair

[OwenM]

Hi there,

I'm fixing a 212r and the input jack is really threaded, beyond hope, I need to find a new one but can't seem to find the exact type on the various parts sites I use (I'm UK based). It seems a slightly non standard size. I'll be able to find SOMETHING but was just hoping someone would be able to say 'yeah they use this ... , a ... will fit'. If not no worries, I'll get something and make it work.

Additionally, the loose input jack, over however many years (and it lives in a music college environment), has pulled off three of the six PCB pads, eventually leading to amp-death and them sending it to me. I have used the copper tape and scrape back the trace approach, and the bodge-wire approach in the past, but as this is more than just a single pad I thought I'd ask to see if anyone has any, more elegant, tricks when seeing this sort of damage... The pcb is a bit of a mess throughout, and evidently folks have done this sort of work in the past on it, I can see...

cheers

O

[TomCarlos]

The input jacks should be easy to find. Can you take a photo of yours so we can see the type? I believe the part number is 0062681000. Let's verify what you have.

[xtian]

If it's possible, attach a proper metal Switchcraft jack to the panel, and run wires to the best available spots on the PCB.

[Enzo]

0062800000 is the Fender part number.

Does this look like yours?
https://darrenriley.com/store/fender...in-0062800000/

I have to disagree with the metal Switchcraft jack. The two Fender jacks on front and the PA in jack are wired together in the Mute circuit. You will lose that unless you get a TRS with both on cutouts. Even then, note the stock jack is insulated from the panel. This amp has a ground system, the circuit common is not chassis. R1 lifts the circuit from chassis.

[OwenM]

Thanks everyone for the time to reply and part no's

Great website! Its like that but the 6 pin version, I found it on the website labelled fm65r / 210r Part No 0062681049. Mines definitely a 212r, revision B, but 3 of the 5 jacks are this 6 pin type and the other two are the 4 pin type that Enzo posted



A search for the part no brings up a lot of sites so sure I'll find a few in the UK!

Does anybody know what the deal is with that kind of rainbow patina on mine? It looks like heat, but all the jack sockets have it, so I guess maybe it just oxidises that way... I'll be cleaning everything up anyway!

It looks like the UK style BJ124 or BJ104 should swap out, (they are common and cheap this side of the pond) I have a few of the 4 pin/solder lug versions and they seem like the pins have the same spacing...
EDIT - scrap that, the socket stands a mm or so taller and probs wouldn't fit in the front panel hole...

EDIT EDIT - guitarpartsresource.com gave an alternate part number that got a lot more results from Europe, the no. is 005-3450-049

https://www.customworldguitarparts.c...-3450-049.html

We'll see once it arrives if I can fix the PCB satisfactorily, and what else is wrong with it!

[Mick Bailey]

The rainbow patina is the way some contacts oxidize - I see it quite often across different amp brands.

[OwenM]

Thanks!

Well after searching all over for the best price etc. I found they are stocked by fender UK still! Oh well, at least I know now

Has anyone tried a nickel pen for pcb repair on amps? As this board is a bit messy I thought it would make the job a lot easier. That said, if there weren’t some drawbacks I’m sure it would be a technique mentioned more often. I imagine the resulting traces would be pretty weak. I’ll probably just take the time to scrape and make new pads and bodge wire etc.

[TomCarlos]

Owen....

Glad you found the part. As for the trace repair, I always use buss wire and solder over a trace and to the connection point. It is a bit more work but more reliable (in my opinion).

[J M Fahey]

IF you were in USA you might have a Plan B available: FM212 is on Fender´s infamous Do Not Repair list, so they send a new one and tell Authirized Tech to trash it.

Mmmaaaayyyybbbeeee some such Tech might send or sell cheap a dead PCB pulled from one, **which you still would have to repair** , mind you, but which at least would be unharmed (from clumsy repairs I mean).

In my book "the amp IS the PCB" , what makes it THAT amp and no other, all components can be bought somewhere or replaced, except the specific PCB.

[Enzo]

Actually, other than the real small stuff like the 15 watt practice amps, Fender sends a call tag and they expect the old one returned.

Do not repair means warranty repair only. It does not mean the amps are unrepairable, nor does it mean parts are not available.

[OwenM]

Yeah, I have heard on the wind that these CAN be a bit of a pit to get into sometimes, I've read the thread over at diyaudio that both of you were posting in too and that seemed a bit of a nightmare for the guy fixing, albeit because other elements entered the discussion too and he was green (even greener than me by the sounds of it). I'm just gonna put in this socket and quickly hook everything up, and if it works I'll do a slow and steady pcb rebuild around that area. The rest of the board has lots of other suspect bits but I've been touching up, resoldering etc as I go. Theres been a few torn pad fixes before and they are blobby and messy but stable and conducting so I'll probably leave them as they are.

Unfortunately the next amp I have is another 212r, with much weirder symptoms, and after that a fender red-knob 'the twin'... I'd quite like to see a fender champ right now...

[Randall]

The cement resistors are problematic on those 212R. I have one that comes in every other year or so with that. But then again, the guy travels with the amp in his car trunk along with his spare tire and tools.

[OwenM]

The cement resistors are problematic on those 212R. I have one that comes in every other year or so with that. But then again, the guy travels with the amp in his car trunk along with his spare tire and tools.

Yup! They were connected, but rocking side to side and not in 'slight play in the leads' way. One of the points of connection is one of those dodgy fixed pad repairs from a previous tech, though tbf that one was a pretty solid connection mechanically. I got the rest solid, if the amp works after I do the first stage of repair I'll probably go in and see what I can do... maybe up-rate a bit..

[OwenM]

Got it working, just needed the new jack sockets and PCB work around that area, attached is a pic of the board after repair. It's not pretty but should be solid (feel free to correct/point out shortcomings, there). The new pads are all glued and connected to the original trace, then doubled up with tinned copper wire or insulated wire if I felt I didn't want bare wire running across that particular trace.. After a bit of a clean of pots, reflow/replace of any questionable solder and new thorough heatsink-mounting it works pretty much perfectly! One down...


EDIT - this was the first photo so I could show my friend what I did to it, rest assured I went in and sorted out the questionable, layered joints you can see on a couple of pins!