Also, without touching the sensitivity switch, what resistance do you measure from V1 pin 8 to ground.
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Ampeg V4 wierd channel 1 & 2 interacting
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Cleaner version of schematic:Attached FilesOriginally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostWhat happens/changes if you swap V1 and V2?Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostJust want to make sure this has been done. Boroman, I know you said you "checked/changed" preamp tubes, I want to verify they are not being checked on a tube tester and put back in the same spots.
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Originally posted by boroman View PostThey all have >90% emission, but yes, I know the actual microphonics and sound can't be measured there. I do have a lot of tubes and put my 60s NOS Mullards there which I always do when testing something that is suspicious. Not the tube for sure. I will start now to remove potentiometer panel to see what's going on there...
My intention was to find out what changes regarding DC voltages and amp behaviour with V1 in V2 socket and vice versa.- Own Opinions Only -
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I was wondering what could cause such asymmetrical channel vol interaction.
I think it could work like this:
Suppose something causes a short between the input of the channel 1 vol pot (where it connects to C3) and the wiper of the channel 2 vol pot.
This would load the CH2 signal at the vol 2 wiper with another 100k (being the estimated circuit impedance at C3). While this would reduce the max available volume of CH2 by around 50%, it might go unnoticed.
But for CH1 the signal at C3 would be shorted at zero setting of vol 2.Last edited by Helmholtz; 12-10-2019, 04:16 PM.- Own Opinions Only -
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostI was wondering what could cause such asymmetrical channel vol interaction.
I think it could work like this:
Suppose something causes a short between the input of the channel 1 vol pot (where it connects to C3) and the wiper of the channel 2 vol pot.
This would load the CH2 signal at the vol 2 wiper with another 100k (being the estimated circuit impedance at C3). While this would reduce the max available volume of CH2 by around 50%, it might go unnoticed.
But for CH1 the signal at C3 would be shorted at zero setting of vol 2.
Second - I noticed (having at the moment only CH2 soldered to pcb) that sound is loud but not super clear. Even at super low volume you hear distortion. I mean, you can have the level low and you can have it super high, but the "hint" of distortion is there all the time (so not volume dependent). This is actually VERY confusing. Should it be because nothing is connected to CH1 pcb points? I'm trying to understand why
By the way, the potentiometer board, assembly, solder joints, pots and the boards' components are all okay.
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By the way, the potentiometer board, assembly, solder joints, pots and the boards' components are all okay.
1) CH1 input signal is not connecting to V1.
2) CH1 connects to CH2 input instead.
3) CH2 jack is not shorting to ground.Last edited by Helmholtz; 12-10-2019, 10:51 PM.- Own Opinions Only -
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Originally posted by boroman View PostI noticed (having at the moment only CH2 soldered to pcb) that sound is loud but not super clear. Even at super low volume you hear distortion. I mean, you can have the level low and you can have it super high, but the "hint" of distortion is there all the time (so not volume dependent).
So it will depend on the signal level you are using at the input.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Yes, the switches are clean, they all work well beside one thing. the ULTRA HI switch has 3 settings: (-) then (0) then (+). It does not go to the (+) setting. Switch does, but it sounds like it's back to minus, so like - / 0 / - rather than - / 0/ +
1) CH1 input signal is not connecting to V1.
2) CH1 connects to CH2 input instead.
3) CH2 jack is not shorting to ground.
2) I have only one working jack now, when I solder it to CH1 pcb and leave CH2 unsoldered I have a lot of strange buzz in the amp - like something is wrong with the transformer. That buzz you want to shut the amp down in a second.
3) It's shorting to ground (checked now). The PCB point of CH1 also shorts to ground.
Not sure if this is the problem but if you have the sensitivity switch set on 0db it is fairly easy to overload the first stage which is pre volume control. Someone who likes a real clean sound may not be able to get it without that switch on the -9db setting. A friend of mine using my amp complained about this even with single coils.
So it will depend on the signal level you are using at the input.
and BTW, R4 measures like 2-3 Ohm (desoldered is ok at 33k). Is it other components of circuit interacting?Last edited by boroman; 12-11-2019, 08:45 AM.
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Originally posted by boroman View Post1) As I see on the amp, the positive wire from input jack CH1 goes from its place on pcb to PIN7 of V1. I checked it now and there is a flow between them, so no need for the jumper.
2) I have only one working jack now, when I solder it to CH1 pcb and leave CH2 unsoldered I have a lot of strange buzz in the amp - like something is wrong with the transformer. That buzz you want to shut the amp down in a second.
3) It's shorting to ground (checked now). The PCB point of CH1 also shorts to ground.
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Yes, the switches are clean, they all work well beside one thing. the ULTRA HI switch has 3 settings: (-) then (0) then (+). It does not go to the (+) setting. Switch does, but it sounds like it's back to minus, so like - / 0 / - rather than - / 0/ +
That makes the Ultra Hi switch suspicious. The unwanted coupling between the channels I indicated in post #22 might actually be happening inside this defective switch.
If the new input jack doesn't solve your problem, I would inspect/disassembly the Ultra Hi switch.- Own Opinions Only -
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Originally posted by doombass View PostLooking at the schematics and your picture of the input jacks I'd presume you've lost R8 5.6M resistor from the ch 2 input circuit since it's located on the input jack.
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