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Valveking 2 protection circuit

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  • Valveking 2 protection circuit

    I've got one of these newer Peaveys, 50W versions, with the "TPI" circuit and lights, that turn red for each tube when a tube fails, is pulling to little current, or too much current.
    Owner brought amp in last month, saying after 30minute of playing, the lights would start to go red. I observed a pretty hot bias in the amp, and cooled it down, making the assumption that once the amp starting cooking at higher volumes, the current draw exceeded whatever window the TPI deems acceptable. LEft the amp on for 3 hrs and it was fine
    Amp came back to me this week, he says same thing happening after 1 hr. Tubes are brand new. Also, he's operating this thing with the speaker defeated, and DI through the PA, on 2W mode.
    Also now, the amp goes quiet when this happens. If you let cool off for 1min, it's fine, apparently.
    I'm convinced there's nothing wrong with the amp, but some combination of the 2W mode, speaker defeat is tripping the TPI circuit.

    DOes anyone have a schematic? All I can find is the original VK, with no adjustable bias, from what I hear, and no TPI circuit.
    I'm thinking about just yanking the TPI circuit, but would like to see how it's implemented first.

    Of interesting note is that the reason he likes this amp is b/c it has the DI out, so he can keep his guitarist(who uses the amp), at a reasonable volume!

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Peavey has schematics, contact customer service at the factory and ask for it. Please include your serial number.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    • #3
      Here you go: Valveking2_20mh.zip

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      • #4
        Great! Thank you. Please help me understand the circuit, as far as K4,K5,F4,F5 goes.
        At the power tubes' cathode it looks like we have a .17A fuse inline with the bias resistor, and in parallel with a 100K cathode resistor, in essence. So if the fuse blows, the amp becomes cathode biased with the 100K and I imagine would put it into cutoff and make no sound? Is that correct? What makes the red LEDs in the protection circuit turn on(top right of page 1)? And why, when they turn red, but you turn off the amp for a minute, everything is "fine". This would lead me to believe the fuse is not open. I will check here in a bit.

        Edit: the fuse looks like a capacitor, which makes it a retriggerable fuse I think? That would explain why the amp would work again after power off.
        I'd like to defeat the protection circuit. Will shorting across R149,R150 do it? Everything else in the protection circuit is surface mounted, so there's no lifting a leg of ,say, R144 or R132....
        Last edited by LarBal; 12-30-2019, 05:07 PM.

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        • #5
          Those are poly fuses so yes, they reset. The parallel resistors are just there to protect the tubes and the LED circuits from the cathode voltage rising too high.
          When the poly fuses open the tubes can no longer conduct (aside from trickle through 100K's). The voltage at K4 and K5 rise enough (relative to F4 and F4) to turn the fault Led's red. All the circuitry related to K4&5, F4&5 points are only for the LED's.
          Yes, shorting across the poly fuses will disable the protection scheme.
          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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          • #6
            Thanks a bunch!

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