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What’s the secret to biasing a Blackstar ht40?

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  • What’s the secret to biasing a Blackstar ht40?

    Hi guys, first time biasing a Blackstar ht40. I replaced the power tubes & found the bias pot... but can’t get a reading at the TP’s 10 & 18. Can someone please step up & disclose the correct TPs for biasing this amp.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Perkinsman View Post
    Hi guys, first time biasing a Blackstar ht40. I replaced the power tubes & found the bias pot... but can’t get a reading at the TP’s 10 & 18. Can someone please step up & disclose the correct TPs for biasing this amp.
    Here you go
    http://dealers.korgusa.com/svcfiles/...0Procedure.pdf
    nosaj
    soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

    Comment


    • #3
      Remember, a cable MUST be plugged into the input!

      It turns bias on/off.

      Threw me for a loop the first time I saw one!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by drewl View Post
        Remember, a cable MUST be plugged into the input!

        It turns bias on/off.

        Threw me for a loop the first time I saw one!
        Must be why it is Bolded in the attached document.
        nosaj
        soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

        Comment


        • #5
          Have some mercy on those who can't download anything, like folks reading this in certain libraries or workplaces.
          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by g1 View Post
            Have some mercy on those who can't download anything, like folks reading this in certain libraries or workplaces.
            Bias Procedure for Blackstar
            The following will show the bias test points, correct bias voltage(s), and bias balance procedure for the
            HT and Series One lines of Blackstar Amplifiers.
            Before starting, make sure you plug a ¼” cable into the input jack
            (**Except on the HT5**)
            Also, all volume and tone controls should be set to “ZERO” and all switches should be in their “OUT”
            position
            HT5 – Adjust bias control for a reading of 46mV across D20
            HTSTUD20 – Adjust bias control for a reading of 12V across R221
            HTCLUB40C – Adjust bias control for a reading of 50mV across D36
            HTSTAGE60C – Adjust bias control for a reading of 50mV across D27
            HTSOLO60C – Adjust bias control for a reading of 50mV across TP1 and TP7
            HT100H – Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across D27
            S145 – Adjust bias control for a reading of 50mV across CON1
            S1100 – Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across CON1
            S1200 – Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across D22
            S1104EL34 – Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across D22
            S11046L6 –Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across D22
            Bias Balance Procedure
            1) Set amplifier to CLEAN CHANNEL
            2) If there is a tone control(s), set these to 12 o’clock
            3) Set Channel and Master Volume controls fully clockwise
            4) Using a 1kHz input signal, drive the output waveform into saturation (full clipping)
            5) Adjust Bias Balance potentiometer so that the output waveform clips symmetrically
            soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

            Comment


            • #7
              Thank you for that, perfect.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by nosaj View Post

                Bias Procedure for Blackstar
                The following will show the bias test points, correct bias voltage(s), and bias balance procedure for the
                HT and Series One lines of Blackstar Amplifiers.
                Before starting, make sure you plug a ¼ cable into the input jack
                (**Except on the HT5**)
                Also, all volume and tone controls should be set to ZERO and all switches should be in their OUT
                position
                HT5 Adjust bias control for a reading of 46mV across D20
                HTSTUD20 Adjust bias control for a reading of 12V across R221
                HTCLUB40C Adjust bias control for a reading of 50mV across D36
                HTSTAGE60C Adjust bias control for a reading of 50mV across D27
                HTSOLO60C Adjust bias control for a reading of 50mV across TP1 and TP7
                HT100H Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across D27
                S145 Adjust bias control for a reading of 50mV across CON1
                S1100 Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across CON1
                S1200 Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across D22
                S1104EL34 Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across D22
                S11046L6 Adjust bias control for a reading of 100mV across D22
                Bias Balance Procedure
                1) Set amplifier to CLEAN CHANNEL
                2) If there is a tone control(s), set these to 12 oclock
                3) Set Channel and Master Volume controls fully clockwise
                4) Using a 1kHz input signal, drive the output waveform into saturation (full clipping)
                5) Adjust Bias Balance potentiometer so that the output waveform clips symmetrically

                This can't be legit, can it? I've got an HT Stage 60 on my bench and I did a bias on it by using some bias probes. I monitored D27 and it didn't really alter much from 66mV bias on the amp was WAY hot at 102%. I dialed it down from 66mA across the plates to ~34mA. And the bias balance procedure? Really? All that pot is doing is balancing the current between the two output tubes. Unless I'm missing something here, these directions are super screwy.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by JZRepair View Post


                  This can't be legit, can it? I've got an HT Stage 60 on my bench and I did a bias on it by using some bias probes. I monitored D27 and it didn't really alter much from 66mV bias on the amp was WAY hot at 102%. I dialed it down from 66mA across the plates to ~34mA. And the bias balance procedure? Really? All that pot is doing is balancing the current between the two output tubes. Unless I'm missing something here, these directions are super screwy.
                  There are two pots for the bias circuit on the HT Stage 60. One pot (PR1) is the bias balance pot, while PR2 is the bias pot. Have the guitar plugged in to enable the output section. Then adjust PR2 for 50mV across D27 (which is across R207 - 1 ohm 1W resistor in the combined cathode line for the power tubes).

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Delta362 View Post

                    There are two pots for the bias circuit on the HT Stage 60. One pot (PR1) is the bias balance pot, while PR2 is the bias pot. Have the guitar plugged in to enable the output section. Then adjust PR2 for 50mV across D27 (which is across R207 - 1 ohm 1W resistor in the combined cathode line for the power tubes).
                    Yes, I understand the procedure, but this will not properly bias the amp and is verifiable through the bias probes. PR2 controls the bias current, true. PR1 controls the balance of available current through the tubes, but actual current through the plates and voltage across the plates are what matters, not this misleading voltage across D27. This is an incredibly lazy way of biasing an amp and is going to cause a lot more tube failure. The balancing of PR1 is visibly seen with bias probes, as the balancing of current across the plates to cathodes in each tube. Adjusting the pot one way or the other simply adjusts the available current (available current being set by PR2) across the plate and cathode respectively in the output tubes, meaning the PR1 pot simply negates the need for matched tubes. Maybe I'm wrong, but it shouldn't have anything to do with distortion when a 1kHz signal is put through the amp at full volume unless you're already overbiasing the amp, which is going to shorten the life of the tubes.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JZRepair View Post

                      Yes, I understand the procedure, but this will not properly bias the amp and is verifiable through the bias probes. PR2 controls the bias current, true. PR1 controls the balance of available current through the tubes, but actual current through the plates and voltage across the plates are what matters, not this misleading voltage across D27. This is an incredibly lazy way of biasing an amp and is going to cause a lot more tube failure. The balancing of PR1 is visibly seen with bias probes, as the balancing of current across the plates to cathodes in each tube. Adjusting the pot one way or the other simply adjusts the available current (available current being set by PR2) across the plate and cathode respectively in the output tubes, meaning the PR1 pot simply negates the need for matched tubes. Maybe I'm wrong, but it shouldn't have anything to do with distortion when a 1kHz signal is put through the amp at full volume unless you're already overbiasing the amp, which is going to shorten the life of the tubes.
                      Yes, like you, I also understand the purpose of the two pots and the pitfalls of the 50mV across D27. I myself use individual bias probes. But, from a manufacturer's standpoint, they have chosen that number to limit warranty claims by running the tubes quite cool.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Delta362 View Post

                        Yes, like you, I also understand the purpose of the two pots and the pitfalls of the 50mV across D27. I myself use individual bias probes. But, from a manufacturer's standpoint, they have chosen that number to limit warranty claims by running the tubes quite cool.
                        I get what you're saying, but doing it this way just seems incredibly silly. Adding the scope and signal generator just appears to be a way of "scaring" the general public from servicing their own amps, thinking they need all this special equipment to do what you could do without it and an understanding of the basic principles of electronics. It's sad that we went from a time where schematics were given out with every electronics product, but now aren't, because of liability and stupidity. Oh well, it is what it is, but these instructions really shouldn't be continued like this. Blackstar should really get away from this practice.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Not getting the problem here.
                          I think it's beneficial to have both a bias level as well as a bias (idle current) balance pot.
                          Adjusting for symmetrical clipping guaranties max. clean output.
                          In Fender amps the balance is adjusted by ear for minimum hum.

                          Could someone post a schematic (no dealer, don't want to register)?
                          What's the function of D27?
                          Last edited by Helmholtz; 09-25-2022, 09:22 PM.
                          - Own Opinions Only -

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post
                            Not getting the problem here.
                            I think it's benficial to have both a bias level as well as a bias (idle current) balance pot.
                            Adjusting for symmetrical clipping guaranties max. clean output.
                            In Fender amps the balance is adjusted by ear for minimum hum.
                            I'm not saying it's not. I rather like the balance feature. I'm simply complaining about Blackstar's procedure. It was a great idea to have a balance pot, because then you don't have a need for perfectly balanced/matched tubes, slight imperfections are negligible.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Here you go, Helmholtz. From post #2 of this thread (since I haven't figured out how to post a direct link to a specific post number yet.

                              https://music-electronics-forum.com/...t-stage-60-amp
                              Attached Files

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