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peavey valveking VK112

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  • peavey valveking VK112

    I feel ridiculous but here it goes.
    How do you pull out the chassis of this amp?
    The typical four top screws, the two little ones on the inside/back, the handle... And? Hammer and chissel maybe?

  • #2
    In fact I had to use some force while trying not to leave too many marks. The chassis was completely glued to the inside of the cabinet. Some of the 'wood' came out with the chassis. Maybe they ensambled the amps while the paint was still fresh I don't know

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    • #3
      I don't know. I got mine out ok. I changed my hardwired speaker connection to a 1/4 inch plug-in. I put in a Celestion Century Vintage speaker. And a larger Accutronics reverb tank. I'm much happier with the sound, now.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by duoman View Post
        I don't know. I got mine out ok. I changed my hardwired speaker connection to a 1/4 inch plug-in. I put in a Celestion Century Vintage speaker. And a larger Accutronics reverb tank. I'm much happier with the sound, now.
        The amps sonuds great, but maybe a little bit dark.. too bluesy. A bit clippy and that keeps the amp out of the 'fender clean' territory.
        Is your amp the same?. I'm talking about the clean channel.

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        • #5
          Not just Valvekings, many amp chassis stick to the cabinet. Paint, tolex, who knows.

          On this amp though, try removing the grille, or at least the top strip of grille. I think the chassis is pretty wedged in place by the top of the grille. Is there a metal strip across the top with maybe four screws? And a couple screws through the logo.
          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Enzo View Post
            Not just Valvekings, many amp chassis stick to the cabinet. Paint, tolex, who knows.

            On this amp though, try removing the grille, or at least the top strip of grille. I think the chassis is pretty wedged in place by the top of the grille. Is there a metal strip across the top with maybe four screws? And a couple screws through the logo.
            Yes that is what I had to do. In fact it was the only way.

            Enzo, do you remember if this amp has a good clean sound?
            I find it a little bit grainy... a little clipped, with the volume half way.
            It has now a new set of tubes and it sounds better, but I believe it should have a little more headroom. Too similar to the fender clone I just repaired with a new OT. Maybe I'm being paranoid about failing OT's.

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            • #7
              Basic tube amp and loud. That is about all I recall. Didn't sound bad to me. I like PV tube amps. 5150 is over the top, I don't play screaming metal stuff, but the Classic 30 and the rest of that family sound good to me. VK sounds like PV family.
              Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Enzo View Post
                Basic tube amp and loud. That is about all I recall. Didn't sound bad to me. I like PV tube amps. 5150 is over the top, I don't play screaming metal stuff, but the Classic 30 and the rest of that family sound good to me. VK sounds like PV family.
                The owner just picked it up and he was pleased with the sound.
                I thought that a mercury magnetics OT could be a nice upgrade for it, but at 270usd plus freight plus labor he decided to wait. To me that tiny OT looks... tiny, for a pushpull 6L6 amp.

                I also installed an adjustable bias circuit, that was easy and the improvement was good.

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                • #9
                  I just googled this old thread because I was having the same problem - Valveking chassis apparently glued in. It was the tops of the chassis sides stuck to the underside of the top of the cab in this one. No amount of the usual gentle levering did anything for it, but my next best method worked - amp on its back on a wooden floor, lift each side a couple of inches up and let it drop, slightly brutal but it works when nothing else does and doesn't leave leverage marks on the amp. For the record the chassis is retained only by the four main screws on top, and (on this one) four more 'silverface-style' screws on the rear of the chassis screwing it to the top of the cab. The front plate is quite easy to remove but there is room for the chassis to slide out without doing so.

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