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  • Kustom 200

    A customer has imported an old Kustom 200 bass amp from the USA. He wants it converted to 240v and done up generally (he likes period amps). It has a number of 'issues' as I like to call them, and I'd appreciate some guidance on any of these you know anything about.

    Power amp - when I feed it a signal direct this puts out 50 watts into 8 ohms then clips. It has four RCA 36892 NPN power transistors; these are stamped '9A'; I understand the NTE130 is an equivalent, so I guess they are likely to be 9 amp as labelled, at least. One pair have +40v on the collectors; the other pair have -40v on the emitters. This voltage holds up under load and signal. Shouldn't I be seeing more output watts? Anyone know for sure what the design output wattage is? Unlikely to be 200 I guess, but you never know, maybe they named it honestly... It has a hefty txfr and huge smoothing caps.

    The preamp has another issue... I put in a guitar-level signal and up until about half way up the volume control, it amplifies clean and normal. Then above that it starts to clip... then by the time you're 3/4 of the way up it's clipping so hard there's hardly any signal left. I thought, power supply, but I have a hefty bench supply and rigged up the preamp to this, but it clipped just the same way - down to almost a flat line with the volume wide open. It has two preamps - both preamps do this, but one in a more marked way than the other. I note the unusual volume control arrangement. Any ideas?

    I completely separated preamps and power amp to do the tests above. The preamp was completely isolated from the power supply also, and fed +8/-8v from the bench supply.

    Because of the power output uncertainty I'm not sure what power transformer rating would be correct.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Alex R; 12-28-2007, 12:30 PM.

  • #2
    Assuming the rails would be +-40V the amplifier could output 200 watts to four ohms only theoretically. In practice, the output never swings to full rail voltage. There will be rail sag under loading and some voltage will be lost over the output transistors and their emitter resistors. My rule of thumb is to assume that the maximum voltage swing is about 5V less than the actual rail voltage. Even more, this estimate does not even include the effect of rail sag, which is harder to predict since it is a result of so many variables.

    I think the real output power of this amplifier is closer to 150 watts (RMS) and maybe about 75 watts to 8 ohms. If there is an underpowered supply (low rail capacitance and transformer with low VA rating) the real output power could be even less. Don´t let the physical size of parts fool you in this; all those parts were massive back then.

    I also believe that Kustom has never claimed this to be a 200-watt amplifier in the fist place? It’s just a model name – although a quite misleading one.

    How close to rails the amplifier can swing without a load attached? This should tell you whether the problem lies in the voltage amplifier or in the current amplifier (that including the power supply).

    Comment


    • #3
      Alex,

      Here: http://cgi.ebay.com/vintage-Kustom-2...QQcmdZViewItem
      you can see that this is 100W amp (4 Ohms) - 50W (8 Ohms). Kustom has never claimed that this is 200W amp.

      Regards,
      Marek

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      • #4
        RE: Preamp distortion: The Tantalum caps in Kustom amps fail often. Check them all for shorts or leakage. Or just replace them. If that doesn't cure the problem then check the transistors for failures.

        RE

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        • #5
          Like everybody's already saying...

          In general, all of the Kustom amp model numbers were the theoretical peak power output ratings for the amps. The 100's were rated at 60 watts rms into 4 ohms, the 200's were rated 100 watts rms into 4 ohms, the 150's were rated 75 watts into 4 ohms, etc. There usually is a metal plate that is riveted to the back panel listing power output/input ratings.

          The output transistors were house numbered RCA 2N3055's.

          The pre-amp volume control circuit was unusual for the time, but was also used by Peavey in many of their early discrete transistor designs as well. It adjusts the gain of the first stage as well as controlling the output.

          And I agree with Rick, 40 yr old tantalums are a common source of problems in these amps.

          Comment


          • #6
            Yeah it would do 100 into 4 ohms I reckon, more or less. Cool, so the power amp's ok. The preamp thing is weird but something tells me it might be an artefact of my testing somehow. Just doesn't look right, the way it clips down to nothing as you wind it open - I mean, doesn't look like any fault I've ever seen.

            Now I know what PT I need I've ordered up a nice toroid and I'm just going to see if the thing sounds ok. If not, tantalums out. Then I might get paid. Thanks guys.

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            • #7
              And stay away from that NTE stuff. They charge several times the price of the real part for something that is merely an apporximation.

              If the venerable NTE130 is the equivalent of a 2N3055, then just use a 2N3055. For most bipolars, get the voltage, current, dissipation, package, and darlington or not right, and most anything works. Just make sure the whole row of output devices are the same type. Whatevr type you choose.
              Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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