removing the board in a hot rod.

[Garydean]

Every time I remove the board from a Fender Hot Rod, or similar, I gain another gray hair. Does anyone have a secret formula to getting these things out before I'm completely gray?

[rf7]

This guy explains it pretty well: http://studentweb.eku.edu/justin_holton/

[Enzo]

I remove all the pot and jack nuts, oh and knobs of course. Pull the board screws and remove the screw to the green ground wire over by the input. Now it is loose.

The ribbons to the tubes are S curves, so I pop them out to simple curves.

SOmetimes have to cut the tie wraps on the OT wires. By the way, note the routing of those wires, make it the same when reassembling.

I pull the bottom edge of the board out just enough to clear the OT wires coming through the chassis. I push the board then straight down against all the wires resisting me. Once I get it started, I get my fingers on the top edge of the board between pots and jacks. It takes a bit of pressure, but I push it down until I can clear the ends of the pot shafts past the chasis lip. Now the board will lie out horizontal with the foil side up.

[Garydean]

Shoot!!! That's exactly how I do it. I always get them out, it's just a pain. I was hoping for some voodoo.

thanks!!

[drewl]

Cutting the tie wraps and getting some slack on the tranny wires is
the "voodoo"

[Garydean]

That does seem to be the best way. Thanks for your help, everyone.

[Enzo]

I have trained many techs over the years, and actually had classes in an industrial setting I was in years back. One large secret is to just DO IT. I had a sign onthe wall that said "10 screws."

One guy came griping to me that he had to take TEN SCREWS out of some assembly to drop it from the surface it was mounted to for repair to it. I pointed out that in the time it took to walk across the room and gripe about it, those 10 screws could have been out and behind him. I would tell people that when they encountered their 10 screw situation, they had two options. One was to piss and moan, then take out the 10 screws. The other was to take out the 10 screws. The sign was there so I could just gesture at it and save time the next time someone griped about their work.

granted, sometimes ther are better ways, but you found out how, it is just inconvenient. I don't even thing about it now. I open those amps up, do it, and the board is staring me in the face inside of 5 minutes or so.

Don't feel bad for asking though. I won't mention any names - snicker - but when a friend told me he had unsoldered all 32 legs of the ooutput tube sockets on a PV 5150, and then had to figure out how to get all 32 of those wiggly long legs BACK into their holes, I almost felt bad telling him, just drill out the 8 rivets next time.

[Mars Amp Repair]

[QUOTE=Enzo;42505]I have trained many techs over the years, and actually had classes in an industrial setting I was in years back. One large secret is to just DO IT. I had a sign onthe wall that said "10 screws."

I feel the same way when I turn over a Korg Triton keyboard to replace the start/stop button register knowing I first have to remove all 27 bottom screws just to get the bottom off & that's before having to remove 3 or 4 circuit boards & what seems like three hundred & fifty plugs...

But if I just do it & stop thinking about it...it gets done and ususally in about an hour ;- ] ....g

[Enzo]

Funny you should say that, I have had a couple Tritons through here in the last month for exactly that - new panel buttons. All the bottom screws, all the circuit boards, all those multipin connectors, the whole keybed has to come out. Bing, replace the button. Now reverse and do it all again. I have it down to a science. or something...

[Mars Amp Repair]

Yeah,
I'm sure you've seen it over & over again..the tact switches get flakey & the player pushes the buttons harder & harder until they're banging on them & break them off! It's always the Start-Stop buttons, too.

Frankly I could completely do without keyboards given my druthers, however my keyboard charge is comesurate with their general complexity.

I also could completely do without hi powered PA amps. Some can be relatively simple with just a couple of power transistors bad, or they can be like the Yorkville's where you have complete melt-downs & hours of tracing & replacing a variety of blow parts...no thrill there. I charge similarly for them.
I've found that you really can find a balance on charges that is fair to you & the customer...just can't lose site of that. no complaints so far ;- ] glen

[Alex R]

...yep ...a 32-channel Yamaha mixer needed a new slider. Off came every knob on every channel, every pot and jack nut, two screws for each XLR input.

A 1/4inch socket set and a power screwdriver are essentials in this game. And a basic grasp of Zen. But yes, people understand you have to charge - my hourly rates are on the website and they can come and time me if they like - but I don't have too many complaints.

[Enzo]

Those wait for after lunch. Let me see, 350 knobs....

[Alex R]

Unwieldy bastards too. Size and weight of a fire door. Rather take the boards out of of 10 HRDLs any day!