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I have a JCM 2000 DSL 100, which has the spring loaded "push in and turn" to lock the fuse in. The plastic holder part got broken on the outer end so the plastic flange that holds the fuse in was chipped away and wouldn't hold the fuse in.
I ordered a replacement about a year ago and I put it in, but being the genius I am, I didn't realize you had to solder it in. So i pulled the old one out and just stuck the new one (with 3 pins) in the holes on the PCB. About a week ago I got the "duh" light bulb, pulled the chassis, unhooked all the wires from the PCB and took it out so I could get to the top of it where I needed to solder. I did this and did a decent job of soldering. I also wrote a map of where every wire went before I unplugged any of them, then used this map to rewire everything. The amp is still just dead.
The amp worked perfectly before the fuse holder broke. The PCB for this section of the amp is kind of small, so I was considering just ordering a replacement PCB. I tried taking some measurments on the PT primary, to see if I saw 120 V, but no matter where I measured I was getting milli-volt measurements. I checked the power switch and it's "shorted" when on, and open when off, so I don't think it's that.
I ordered a replacement about a year ago and I put it in, but being the genius I am, I didn't realize you had to solder it in. So i pulled the old one out and just stuck the new one (with 3 pins) in the holes on the PCB. About a week ago I got the "duh" light bulb, pulled the chassis, unhooked all the wires from the PCB and took it out so I could get to the top of it where I needed to solder. I did this and did a decent job of soldering. I also wrote a map of where every wire went before I unplugged any of them, then used this map to rewire everything. The amp is still just dead.
The amp worked perfectly before the fuse holder broke. The PCB for this section of the amp is kind of small, so I was considering just ordering a replacement PCB. I tried taking some measurments on the PT primary, to see if I saw 120 V, but no matter where I measured I was getting milli-volt measurements. I checked the power switch and it's "shorted" when on, and open when off, so I don't think it's that.
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