Got the intermittent "bacon sizzle". "pop....kzsht..pop...etc".
Does it with all knobs down. Plugged a guitar into "Amp In', still does it.
Sovtek 5881WXT tubes tested good in tube tester. Replaced with a pair of USA 6L6GC from my BF Bandmaster. Still pops.
Tried the Sovteks in my Bandmaster. No problem. Worked fine.
OK. Hmmm. Took a reading at TP26. Supposed to be 37.2V. This read 29.6V. Tested (good) all 12AX7s. Swapped tubes. Nothing changed.
Is this, perhaps, a cap problem? Which would be most likely, if so? Any other ideas? Any other known issues with these things?
My friend (our other guitar player) has taken this to a local guy, and a guy 30 miles away, paid good money, and issue hasn't been resolved. He said it was good for maybe a week each time, then problem popped back up.
I believe these are all original caps? (Gray "IC" branded, still hot-glued).
BTW, I can't tell what someone did, exactly on another thing.
W4 wire jumper was removed. (Goes to P1A cable left-most wire, which goes to pin 8 of 12AX7, V1B.) R10 (1.5K) was removed, and piggybacked parallel with a 47uF cap, with the bottom (+ end) connected to where the bottom of the W4jumper was (connected to pin 8). Any ideas on that? It's the same brand of cap, but a sloppy job!
Link to Fender schem, in case:
http://www.fender.com/support/amp_sc..._Schematic.pdf
Thanks,
Brad1
Does it with all knobs down. Plugged a guitar into "Amp In', still does it.
Sovtek 5881WXT tubes tested good in tube tester. Replaced with a pair of USA 6L6GC from my BF Bandmaster. Still pops.
Tried the Sovteks in my Bandmaster. No problem. Worked fine.
OK. Hmmm. Took a reading at TP26. Supposed to be 37.2V. This read 29.6V. Tested (good) all 12AX7s. Swapped tubes. Nothing changed.
Is this, perhaps, a cap problem? Which would be most likely, if so? Any other ideas? Any other known issues with these things?
My friend (our other guitar player) has taken this to a local guy, and a guy 30 miles away, paid good money, and issue hasn't been resolved. He said it was good for maybe a week each time, then problem popped back up.
I believe these are all original caps? (Gray "IC" branded, still hot-glued).
BTW, I can't tell what someone did, exactly on another thing.
W4 wire jumper was removed. (Goes to P1A cable left-most wire, which goes to pin 8 of 12AX7, V1B.) R10 (1.5K) was removed, and piggybacked parallel with a 47uF cap, with the bottom (+ end) connected to where the bottom of the W4jumper was (connected to pin 8). Any ideas on that? It's the same brand of cap, but a sloppy job!
Link to Fender schem, in case:
http://www.fender.com/support/amp_sc..._Schematic.pdf
Thanks,
Brad1
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