I moved a Vox AC30-CC2X into the shop from the shrinking repair pile, which had the remains of an aluminum electrolytic cap can taped to the top of the amp. Note stated 'blows fuses'. After removing the chassis assembly from the cabinet, then removing the wooden shelf from the chassis, I found all of the shrapnel of an exploded 22uF/450V Electrolytic cap everywhere. Most looked like confetti, while finding both axial component leads still solidly attached to the PCB. The rubber slug was among the shrapnel. I must say, this is the first time I've seen a main buss filter cap detonate with such force in an amp. I'm still picking up bits of the confetti.
One of the key 'features' of this model, is everything is tethered on a short leash, so to speak. To get to the bottom side of this main power supply board is VERY Tedious. I looked it over,and after giving firm tugs on the two remaining leads from the exploded cap, I cut them down, and with round-nose pliers, formed a curly-cue pig tails, tight enough to slip the leads of a replacement cap into the holes and tightened them up. Sits nice and solid on the PCB. Checked the AC Mains fuse, and the heater fuses, then plugged it in, ran it up n the variac, in Standby mode, monitoring the power analyzer for signs of failure. Seemed ok, holding steady at around 400mA/46W. While my attention was elsewhere for a moment, turning back, I saw there was now no current draw and the power LED was out. Popped the T4A fuse out, and it was blown. 5AR4 Rectifier tube, no doubt. I fetched another one and popped it in, then ran it up again and watched it for a while before switching out of Standby. Drawing the same 400mA/46W in Standby, then in Operate, now drawing 920mA/100W.
I connected a long speaker cable to reach to the check-out bench where the cabinet was sitting, and plugged it into the speaker jack. Fed input signal, but got nothing. After checking all the settings, I checked the supply voltages, and found 320VDC on the plates & screens, 11VDC on the cathodes of the power tubes, and around 280V on the supply side of the plates in the preamp section. Fetched the scope probe to see if I had signal anywhere. Found signal until I got to V3, finding nothing. Checked the output of the NJM2147 Hi Voltage Op Amp, and no signal on IC1A or B outputs.
Sigh. Getting that PCB out of the chassis is a major PITA. The preamp TUBE PCB has to be removed first, and it's tightly tethered in place with six wires from the other side of the chassis wall. I had to mark the thick BLU, BLK and RED wires so they'd be able to return from where I removed them from, unsoldered them and fished them out, now having everything else from that board disconnected, and extracted it from the chassis.
I removed the mtg hardware holding the bipolar supply board with it's Reverb circuits from the chassis, while it too is tightly tethered. And, just to make it all the more enjoyable, my right hand is now bleeding from encountering the sharp inside edges of the aluminum chassis that never gets deburred in the fabrication shop! I hadn't unsoldered all the wires to this supply board, but did find the 100 ohm series resistors from the half-wave rectifier feeding the 27V zener diodes were both open and burnt, while both of the 27V 1/2W zeners were shorted. The 15V zeners measured fine, as did their 470 ohm source resistors from the +/- 27V busses. I replaced those parts, then setting it back into place, fed what I had for supply voltage from my Tek PS503A (+/-20V is all I can get from it while my other supplies are back at the other shop. Something is still dragging the negative supply down, not getting +/- 15V.
So, more wires to remove, and marked the LED wires so I could restore order after figuring out what else failed. ONWARD.
I guess when that high voltage cap exploded, the shock to everything took out the bipolar supplies in the process.
One of the key 'features' of this model, is everything is tethered on a short leash, so to speak. To get to the bottom side of this main power supply board is VERY Tedious. I looked it over,and after giving firm tugs on the two remaining leads from the exploded cap, I cut them down, and with round-nose pliers, formed a curly-cue pig tails, tight enough to slip the leads of a replacement cap into the holes and tightened them up. Sits nice and solid on the PCB. Checked the AC Mains fuse, and the heater fuses, then plugged it in, ran it up n the variac, in Standby mode, monitoring the power analyzer for signs of failure. Seemed ok, holding steady at around 400mA/46W. While my attention was elsewhere for a moment, turning back, I saw there was now no current draw and the power LED was out. Popped the T4A fuse out, and it was blown. 5AR4 Rectifier tube, no doubt. I fetched another one and popped it in, then ran it up again and watched it for a while before switching out of Standby. Drawing the same 400mA/46W in Standby, then in Operate, now drawing 920mA/100W.
I connected a long speaker cable to reach to the check-out bench where the cabinet was sitting, and plugged it into the speaker jack. Fed input signal, but got nothing. After checking all the settings, I checked the supply voltages, and found 320VDC on the plates & screens, 11VDC on the cathodes of the power tubes, and around 280V on the supply side of the plates in the preamp section. Fetched the scope probe to see if I had signal anywhere. Found signal until I got to V3, finding nothing. Checked the output of the NJM2147 Hi Voltage Op Amp, and no signal on IC1A or B outputs.
Sigh. Getting that PCB out of the chassis is a major PITA. The preamp TUBE PCB has to be removed first, and it's tightly tethered in place with six wires from the other side of the chassis wall. I had to mark the thick BLU, BLK and RED wires so they'd be able to return from where I removed them from, unsoldered them and fished them out, now having everything else from that board disconnected, and extracted it from the chassis.
I removed the mtg hardware holding the bipolar supply board with it's Reverb circuits from the chassis, while it too is tightly tethered. And, just to make it all the more enjoyable, my right hand is now bleeding from encountering the sharp inside edges of the aluminum chassis that never gets deburred in the fabrication shop! I hadn't unsoldered all the wires to this supply board, but did find the 100 ohm series resistors from the half-wave rectifier feeding the 27V zener diodes were both open and burnt, while both of the 27V 1/2W zeners were shorted. The 15V zeners measured fine, as did their 470 ohm source resistors from the +/- 27V busses. I replaced those parts, then setting it back into place, fed what I had for supply voltage from my Tek PS503A (+/-20V is all I can get from it while my other supplies are back at the other shop. Something is still dragging the negative supply down, not getting +/- 15V.
So, more wires to remove, and marked the LED wires so I could restore order after figuring out what else failed. ONWARD.
I guess when that high voltage cap exploded, the shock to everything took out the bipolar supplies in the process.
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