I've just been working on a Line 6 LD175 that after about 15 minutes started to play distorted for a few seconds and then reset to its power-on condition. I traced this to the 3.3v supply, which slowly dropped to 2.7v and caused the processor to drop out. The amp uses an LM317, rather than using a fixed voltage regulator, which means using a pair of resistors to set the output voltage. The regulator tab is bolted to an area of copper on the PCB with a standoff used as an additional heatsink, but despite this the regulator got sizzlingly hot. Where are the resistors mounted? - on the back of the regulator tab on the other side of the PCB so they get cooked.
Now, the regulator should have an input of 8v according to the test point on the PCB, but it measured 11v. Just to be sure I checked all three LT supplies and they all read high by x1.414, despite having independent rectification for +8v,+16v and -16v. They do however all share the same secondary winding. I checked the transformer strapping to make sure it's configured correctly for UK 240v mains - there's a common (black) 0v, yellow (220v) and red (240v) primary configuration, selectable by plugging in either of two positions. My fix was to remove the resistors and replace them with 1/4W metal film leaded types mounted slightly off the board and connecting directly to the regulator pads. This is easily done on the reverse side of the board and there's plenty of room. I also made up a heatsink from sheet metal and used thermal compound. Now the regulator gets barely warm and the output is stable, so this should hold up.
Now, the regulator should have an input of 8v according to the test point on the PCB, but it measured 11v. Just to be sure I checked all three LT supplies and they all read high by x1.414, despite having independent rectification for +8v,+16v and -16v. They do however all share the same secondary winding. I checked the transformer strapping to make sure it's configured correctly for UK 240v mains - there's a common (black) 0v, yellow (220v) and red (240v) primary configuration, selectable by plugging in either of two positions. My fix was to remove the resistors and replace them with 1/4W metal film leaded types mounted slightly off the board and connecting directly to the regulator pads. This is easily done on the reverse side of the board and there's plenty of room. I also made up a heatsink from sheet metal and used thermal compound. Now the regulator gets barely warm and the output is stable, so this should hold up.
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