Dicky Twin Reverb.

[Chuck H]

The lubricant is necessary for switches and pots to reduce friction and wear. Used for predominantly stationary contacts a lubricant remains viscous and can gather atomized particles and dust. Sometimes even becoming conductive with enough time and heat, like you would have on a tube socket but not a potentiometer. However...

In a pinch I've fudged and used cleaner/lubricant where it wasn't the ideal product just to get an amp "working". And I never looked back and never had a problem. I think it's probably repeated application of viscous product that can build up and create the problems I mentioned. In other words, if you used what you have it's probably not a problem. But you shouldn't do it all the time every time.

[Sea Chief]

Chuck H gotcha/ thanks for that info. I ought to start treating/ servicing my amps a bit better now, so useful to know. The TR sounds great when behaving, alot more character than a std silverface UL (when rebuilding it I BF'd it, well, as much as I can do with the UL xfmr; so I added a choke & made a new bias board, etc etc: when I say "I" I mean Rift walked me thru over the phone/ re-designing as we went along: a very kind chap).

Can you recommend any affordable contact cleaner then? or just ebay cheapo maybe ok.

[Chuck H]

I'm still using whatever aerosol can I got from Radio Shack years ago that has their name on it. So, yeah, cheap. And I'm not a repair shop, per se'. Most of the guys here that do repairs seem to like the Caig Deoxit products. They also seem to prefer the applicator bottle rather than the spray can. And I can understand why. In tight quarters pressing the button on the spray can can be a hesitant, eye squinting maneuver. I use lots of paper towels to protect surrounding surfaces. Especially if they're plastic or finished wood. The Caig product does look stupid expensive in the UK though.

Maybe another member can make a suggestion.?.

[Sea Chief]

I'm still using whatever aerosol can I got from Radio Shack years ago that has their name on it. So, yeah, cheap. And I'm not a repair shop, per se'. Most of the guys here that do repairs seem to like the Caig Deoxit products. They also seem to prefer the applicator bottle rather than the spray can. And I can understand why. In tight quarters pressing the button on the spray can can be a hesitant, eye squinting maneuver. I use lots of paper towels to protect surrounding surfaces. Especially if they're plastic or finished wood. The Caig product does look stupid expensive in the UK though.

Maybe another member can make a suggestion.?.

Actually I think wd-40 brand is yours isn't it? US? anyway Ive found a spray with a straw on.. I'd think a spray without will hit all sorts of other bits.

So the idea with contact cleaner, is just spray on & leave for a bit? the idea being it works as an 'eater' of residue, not just to make it loose & faff about scraping xyz after?

I think I should've bought some years ago! cheers Chuck.

[pdf64]

This should be fine. I need to restock too
https://cpc.farnell.com/ambersil/615...0ml/dp/SA02185

[Sea Chief]

This should be fine. I need to restock too
https://cpc.farnell.com/ambersil/615...0ml/dp/SA02185

Just found this on offer/ https://www.screwfix.com/p/wd-40-spe...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Helmholtz]

Use contact cleaner sparingly. You don't want it to dissolve and spread the lubricating grease inside the pot and bearing.

[Chuck H]

Use contact cleaner sparingly. You don't want it to dissolve and spread the lubricating grease inside the pot and bearing.

This would be for tube sockets and pins. Sea Chief already has some pot cleaner with lubricant.

But yes, when cleaning pots you want to use pot cleaner sparingly. Which isn't always easy with the blast cans. Easier for guitar players with fast fingers Also, when cleaning pots I like to hit them with a blast of compressed air first on the notion that it may blow out some dust. Not sure it helps all that much really, but it feels right.

[Chuck H]

I don't know anything about the WD40 product. As electronics nerds we've been told all our lives NOT to use "regular" WD40. Of course this is a product made specifically for electrical contacts so it's all different now.

I think the Caig product is popular with repair techs because it includes a de-oxidizer. Which does seem more ideal. Obviously it comes at a cost. The actual level of oxidation I've witnessed in tube sockets and pins has never been that bad and you can often solve an intermittent contact by just rocking the tube without any cleaner. But relative to the nature of the forum I do think it's right to promote best practices.

[Helmholtz]

This would be for tube sockets and pins. Sea Chief already has some pot cleaner with lubricant.

Not clear what you mean. All types of spray cleaner contain solvents and getting the sticky "friction" grease on the track is much worse than the lubricating component of the cleaner.
The grease inside and between shaft and bearing provides lubrication and defined friction for moving parts but should not get on the track and wiper contacts.
To avoid problems with the grease I sometimes disassemble the pot and only clean track and wiper contacts with DEoxit on a Q-Tip.
It is a good idea to cover the pot opening with tape after cleaning to prevent dust from re-entering.

But no treatment will help if the track is eroded, often indicated by increased resistance.

[Chuck H]

Not clear what you mean. All types of spray cleaner contain solvents and getting the sticky "friction" grease on the track is much worse than the lubricating component of the cleaner..

Absolutely! You wouldn't want that grease that's in the pot bearing on the track.

What I mean is that the discussion at hand is about cleaning tube socket and pin contacts.

As far as I know "control cleaner" usually includes a lubricant and "contact cleaner" does not. Sea Chief does have some control cleaner. He doesn't currently have contact cleaner.

[Helmholtz]

Sorry, I missed that the topic has shifted from crackling pots to cleaning tube pin/socket contacts. Different methods for the latter have discussed extensively in earlier threads.
Having and having used a number of different contact cleaners, the best results I always got with Craig Deoxit D5 with pots as well as tube pins/socket contacts. For tube pins I use it on Q-Tips and for socket contacts I use small interdental brushes. And I re-tension socket contacts.

[Sea Chief]

I'm only just getting round to doing this job! over a year! omg it only seems last month I was asking on this.

So I've just squirted contact cleaner in tube sockets & given each tube good 5x wiggles in/ out/ in. Now waiting 20mins.

Hope all well, ChuckH Helholtz etc.. & covid not affected you guys dreadful business.