I know that with power tube replacement the bias requires adjustment but what if I'm just replacing the main filter caps and keeping the same power tubes?
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Rebias after Recap?
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If it’s a case with really nasty old caps that might drag the b+ voltage down a bit then I would at least check it. In all tube amps that I service I check the bias especially one where the caps are old enough to warrant a replacement. Doesn’t mean you have to adjust anything but you won’t know unless you know.When the going gets weird... The weird turn pro!
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In theory, capacitors do not conduct DC voltage but in a bias circuit if they change value, then in a doubler circuit will have an effect on the resultant voltage produced. The previous owner may have adjusted the bias voltage and when the capacitors are replaced, the bias will need resetting. Portion of bias voltage generator from a TSL100/22Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
If you can't fix it, I probably can.
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My view is that the bias supply ecaps are more ‘mission critical’ than those of the HT supply. So there should be good reason to replace the latter without also the former.
To the query, if the amp chassis is already on the bench, why wouldn’t such basic checks as power tube idle plate / cathode current and full output be done?My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand
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Originally posted by pdf64 View Postif the amp chassis is already on the bench, why wouldn't such basic checks as power tube idle plate / cathode current and full output be done?
This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Originally posted by DrGonz78 View PostIf it’s a case with really nasty old caps that might drag the b+ voltage down a bit then I would at least check it.
Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostAgree. Worst case is that B+ comes up a lot with the fresh filter caps and idle current becomes unacceptably hot. Not worth the risk, check it.This isn't the future I signed up for.
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I check the bias on every amp before it leaves the shop- regardless of what the repair was. It's a quick and easy and may prevent the amp from coming back."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Originally posted by Perkinsman View Post...The old ones were off spec by 30% so I'm curious to see how that impacted the bias. I also check the bias cap.
My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand
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Originally posted by pdf64 View PostWhat spec are you referring to? How are you checking ecaps?
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In the absence of an old school, high voltage cap tester, such as your Sprague (which I don’t have), my view is that the best way to check ecaps is to measure how they perform in circuit, swap in a known good, new one of the same nominal value, measure how that performs and compare the results.
I don’t see much point in making a judgement based on how close their cap value is to the nominal at a very low voltage. Especially if their capacitance ‘tolerance to nominal’ spec is unknown.
Their ESR and leakage resistance at working voltage seem more significant to their in-circuit performance and suitability for leaving in place than how close their cap value is to nominal.My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand
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Value on old electrolytic caps was all over the map. In the old days, filter caps often had the spec -20/+80%. Seriously, no lie.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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