Originally posted by misterc57
View Post
Ad Widget
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100 High Current Draw
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by Delta362 View Post
Able to see the attached file this time?
Anyway, I think I understand the test you described. I disconnected all primary cables from the board. So I am bypassing all cables, switches, etc. in the amp.
I directly connected mains hot/neutral to red/blue. High current draw at just 3 VAC
I directly connected mains hot/neutral to red/brown. High current draw at just 3 VAC
Comment
-
-
If I understand correctly now. W9 (brown) and W1 (red) is one winding. W2 (blue) and W6 (red) is one winding. If I connect my mains to each individual winding, I am NOT seeing any current draw.
W9 to W1 resistance is open
W2 to W6 resistance is open
My prior readings and testing was done at W9 to W6 and at W2 to W1.
Comment
-
W9 and W6 are physically connected via a trace on the board. You'll read a short with nothing connected. Same thing with W1 and W2 being physically connected via a trace on the board.
For the PT, take the blue lead and find out which red lead gives you a small ~2 ohm resistance. Connect the blue wire to W2, and connect that matching red wire to W6. Now apply power to the mains inlet with your variac. Any heavy current draw? No? It's good, then.
Next take the brown lead and remaining red lead (that gives you about ~2 ohm resistance between those two). Connect the brown to W9, and connect the remaining red to W1. Now apply power to the mains inlet with your variac. Any heavy current draw? No? That's good, too.
At this point, you'll have both of your primary windings (A red/blue pair, and a red/brown pair) connected to the power supply board correctly. Power it on thru the mains inlet again. There should be no heavy current draw. If that's all good, then you're ready start to connect your secondary windings.
Comment
-
I think part of the confusion on the schematic for you might be the dotted lines for the red leads. They are showing that you'll either connect two sets of windings in parallel (like you're ultimately doing for 115V), or two windings in series thru W4 and W5 if you're supplying a 230V.
Comment
-
Sorry, I am adding confusion. When I reference W9, W1, W2, W6 below, I am referring to where they connect at the PT primary. The wires are not connected and I am taking readings at the PT primary taps.
So the board connections or traces are not a factor in these readings.If I understand correctly now. W9 (brown) and W1 (red) is one winding. W2 (blue) and W6 (red) is one winding. If I connect my mains to each individual winding, I am NOT seeing any current draw.
W9 to W1 resistance is open
W2 to W6 resistance is open
My prior readings and testing was done at W9 to W6 and at W2 to W1.
Comment
-
Please connect the brown wire to W9 on the board and the corresponding red wire to W1 on the board. Then power up to check current draw. This will test both the board and one of the PT windings in the circuit.
If it's low current, then power off. Connect the blue wire to W2 on the board and its corresponding red wire to W6 on the board. Then power up and check current draw.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Delta362 View PostPlease connect the brown wire to W9 on the board and the corresponding red wire to W1 on the board. Then power up to check current draw. This will test both the board and one of the PT windings in the circuit.
If it's low current, then power off. Connect the blue wire to W2 on the board and its corresponding red wire to W6 on the board. Then power up and check current draw.
W9 and W1 caused high current draw.
Could there be anything besides the PT primary causing this?
Comment
Comment