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Screen resistor wattage rating on JMI-era Vox AC15

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  • Screen resistor wattage rating on JMI-era Vox AC15

    Hi all,

    Working on wiring up my AC15 clone, have a question on the 100-ohm screen resistors.

    Referencing the available schematics, I didn't see that these were anything other than 1/2 watt types. I used 1/2 watt here.

    Looking at some other builds online, I see that peeps are using 3 watt resistors here... can't get immediate access to 3-watts anytime soon...

    I haven't powered up the amp yet. Will I burn up those resistors on power up? Or otherwise damage the transformers or amp?

    Cheers,
    Chris

  • #2
    The schematics that I have seen for the AC 15 indicate a 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor for the screens.
    Go for it.

    Comment


    • #3
      I always prefer to run amps with a minimum wattage for screen resistors and use flameproof types. If an output tube develops a screen short the screen resistor can go open and give a little more protection. This is especially the case where no HT fuse is fitted.
      Last edited by Mick Bailey; 03-25-2021, 09:33 AM.

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      • #4
        Definitely not a carbon type resistor - vintage correctness be damned
        MO is preferred, fusible versions are available from Mouser if defined breaking characteristics is desired.
        eg here’s a 1ohm 1/2W fusible, great for cathode current sensing https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta...jHVeUw6Q%3D%3D
        Last edited by pdf64; 03-25-2021, 10:37 AM.
        My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

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        • #5
          Always fit 100R 1/2W Metal Oxide because they are fusible and do not set fire to your PCB or other components if built in the traditional way on turret board when the EL84s get a problem.
          Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
          If you can't fix it, I probably can.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi all,

            Thanks for your replies.

            Unfortunately, I utilized 1/2W carbon films for these... but based on your feedback (which now makes sense to me), I am going with 1/2W metal oxides:

            https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...J100R/10211258

            I'm sticking with 1/2W and not going for anything rated higher because if there's a problem, I want these to blow and not other components getting damaged. That's if I am understanding things correctly. You guys will let me know, I'm sure, if I am misunderstanding this...

            Thanks again all!
            Chris

            Comment


            • #7

              A HT fuse and protection diodes for the rectifier are beneficial mods.
              A light bulb limiter is extremely beneficial when initially applying power to a new build, or after significant repairs, power valve or rectifier replacement etc.
              My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the reply pdf64. Any info/guidance on performing those mods?

                Also, was reading elsewhere that I should up the screen resistors, to something like 470-2k ohms?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by seven View Post
                  Thanks for the reply pdf64. Any info/guidance on performing those mods?

                  Also, was reading elsewhere that I should up the screen resistors, to something like 470-2k ohms?
                  It would be best to provide a link to the exact schematic you're planning to use, so that we're all referring to the same thing.
                  My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Click image for larger version

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                    • #11
                      OK, so as I await your advice, I did some research and found this from R.G. Keen:

                      https://www.premierguitar.com/articl...mplifier-mod-1 and https://www.premierguitar.com/articl...s-ndash-pt-2-1

                      So, I'm thinking for the B+ to fuse right after the EZ81 but before the first filter cap, like this:

                      Click image for larger version

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                      and for the EZ81 plates, 1N4007s.

                      And then for the filaments, was thinking of 4A fuses like this:

                      https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/e...asheet.pdf.pdf

                      or

                      https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/e...asheet.pdf.pdf

                      What do you guys think?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Does this make sense? Option A uses a single HT fuse, option B uses 2 HT fuses.
                        I think it’s better to fuse the AC side of the rectifier, in case there’s a cathode to heater short on the EZ81.
                        For a lowish voltage amp like an AC15, 1N4007 should have sufficient reverse voltage.
                        I like the Picofuses, thanks for introducing me to them. As they solder in place, the usual heater fuse issue of contact resistance with the fuseholder can’t arise

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                        Last edited by pdf64; 03-27-2021, 06:53 PM.
                        My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

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                        • #13
                          A genuine "back of an envelope" design

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                          • #14
                            No fag packets available
                            My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

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                            • #15
                              Drawing A is preferred because there is only one fuse and that protects both sides of the rectifier. If B was employed, there is a possibility of unbalanced loading and one fuse may fail leaving the other half working overtime or indeed neither may fail due to the chosen value and availability.
                              Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
                              If you can't fix it, I probably can.

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