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Bass Master XM100 Type:100B

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  • #61
    Originally posted by g1 View Post
    Yes, they are .027 ohms. 'R' is used to designate the decimal place. Or 'K' or 'M'. 4K7 is 4700, 3M3 is 3.3Meg. 27R is 27 ohms, 0R27 is .027 ohms.
    Those ones from Mouser should work fine.
    When measuring (good) resistors less than 1 ohm like these, your meter will probably give you a zero reading on resistance range. Or whatever the resistance of your probes is when shorted together.
    I knew of the 4k7 etc. from building pedals, but when I read that I don't see 0R27 = .027, I see 0R27 = 0.27.
    I have Klein MM700 True RMS it should be able to read below .1 Ohm, here are the specs.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Screenshot_2021-04-15 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter True RMS Technology - MM700_1390112ART_WEB pdf.png Views:	0 Size:	86.9 KB ID:	929067
    These are my options, I think the vishay would do fine.
    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...pJCCMxCAH2U%3D

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...2FyyWFO9i7o%3D

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...Ln6X%252BjQ%3D

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...ee%252B1IT0%3D
    Last edited by redkurn; 04-16-2021, 12:56 AM.

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    • #62
      Yes, you are correct. 0R27 is .27 ohms. Sorry about the typo.
      "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

      Comment


      • #63
        Originally posted by g1 View Post
        Yes, you are correct. 0R27 is .27 ohms. Sorry about the typo.
        It's cool, mistakes happen and I tend to make a lot of them. Which is why I am trying to make absolutely sure.

        The choices I have above, which would be more suited?

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        • #64
          Originally posted by redkurn View Post
          Tested it in place, the datasheet on mouser is wrong, it is the same orientation as the original part.
          Not sure how you tested in place. J111 is an N-channel jFet. It is 'on' until it gets the correct voltage at the gate to turn it off. So with no power applied you will measure a low resistance between drain and source pins, approx. 30 to 50 ohms. So find which pins have the low resistance between them, and the other pin will be the gate.

          "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

          Comment


          • #65
            Originally posted by redkurn View Post
            The choices I have above, which would be more suited?
            When checking mouser, always click the part of the selector that says 'in stock'.

            2 of the choices you posted are non-stocked. Of the remaining 2, one has both legs on one end so it won't work for you. That leaves the ohmite.
            https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...pJCCMxCAH2U%3D

            (edit: the vishay you posted earlier would also work fine)
            "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

            Comment


            • #66
              Originally posted by g1 View Post
              Not sure how you tested in place. J111 is an N-channel jFet. It is 'on' until it gets the correct voltage at the gate to turn it off. So with no power applied you will measure a low resistance between drain and source pins, approx. 30 to 50 ohms. So find which pins have the low resistance between them, and the other pin will be the gate.
              I tested for continuity like I was shown in a video, one side was open when bridging the source and gate with the common lead, probe on the other leg, continuity when bridging the source and drain it will open for continuity and show resistance.
              I was only looking for that info, I tested it before I installed it, but trusted the datasheet for orientation.

              Ohmite it is then.

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              • #67
                Originally posted by redkurn View Post

                I tested for continuity like I was shown in a video, one side was open when bridging the source and gate with the common lead, probe on the other leg, continuity when bridging the source and drain it will open for continuity and show resistance.
                Find the 2 legs with low resistance between them, the other leg is the gate. You can do that with it installed. The datasheet for the brand of part you have should be correct.
                "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

                Comment


                • #68
                  Originally posted by g1 View Post
                  Find the 2 legs with low resistance between them, the other leg is the gate. You can do that with it installed. The datasheet for the brand of part you have should be correct.
                  I'll pull it and test it when the resistors arrive, Probably next week, I'm glad this forum exists or I'd be lost.

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                  • #69
                    Originally posted by redkurn View Post

                    I'll pull it and test it when the resistors arrive,
                    You can do the test I mentioned without removing it.
                    "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Originally posted by g1 View Post
                      You can do the test I mentioned without removing it.
                      I'll give it a try in a bit, sorting parts for guitar pedal builds.

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                      • #71
                        FWIW you can still get incandescent filament lamps all over the place in the shape of "high efficiency" ones.

                        An olive sized Quartz or Halogen lamp inside a regular sized glass bulb and with standard E27 thread, to be used in old fittings.

                        The important point is that they have a red hot glowing wire inside which does the magic for us.

                        Specs are somewhat confusing: "75W Equivalent" --- "53W" which is the actual consumption.

                        There is about 30% difference, which earns the "higher efficiency" label.

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	eco_halogen_full_power.jpg
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                        Juan Manuel Fahey

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                        • #72
                          Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post
                          FWIW you can still get incandescent filament lamps all over the place in the shape of "high efficiency" ones.

                          An olive sized Quartz or Halogen lamp inside a regular sized glass bulb and with standard E27 thread, to be used in old fittings.

                          The important point is that they have a red hot glowing wire inside which does the magic for us.

                          Specs are somewhat confusing: "75W Equivalent" --- "53W" which is the actual consumption.

                          There is about 30% difference, which earns the "higher efficiency" label.

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	eco_halogen_full_power.jpg
Views:	32
Size:	28.0 KB
ID:	929110
                          Not here, They are trying to force LED fully here... shelves full of LED and only 2 selections of incandescent. I'll have to order online if this bulb fails unless I can find a replacement locally still.

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            Originally posted by g1 View Post
                            Find the 2 legs with low resistance between them, the other leg is the gate. You can do that with it installed. The datasheet for the brand of part you have should be correct.
                            If I am understanding this correctly then pin 1is drain, pin 2 source, pin 3 is gate?
                            pin 1 to pin 2 = 98.7k *
                            pin 2 to pin 3 = 23.3R

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	MMBFJ113_D-1811481-pdf.png
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                            If I am understanding correctly the datasheet provided by mouser is wrong.
                            This is how I tested it in circuit, the test seemed to work fine because only one side had continuity, marked with a * above.
                            https://youtu.be/2IkAPU9X33k?t=534

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                            • #74
                              Originally posted by redkurn View Post

                              If I am understanding this correctly then pin 1is drain, pin 2 source, pin 3 is gate?
                              pin 1 to pin 2 = 98.7k *
                              pin 2 to pin 3 = 23.3R

                              Click image for larger version

Name:	MMBFJ113_D-1811481-pdf.png
Views:	31
Size:	3.1 KB
ID:	929147

                              If I am understanding correctly the datasheet provided by mouser is wrong.
                              This is how I tested it in circuit, the test seemed to work fine because only one side had continuity, marked with a * above.
                              https://youtu.be/2IkAPU9X33k?t=534
                              That image does not match the mouser datasheet for the ON semi brand. It is opposite. To make things worse they number the pins against convention. (#1 should be on the left).
                              According to the mouser datasheet for the ON semi (attached), pinout is DSG looking at the face, D on the left. So looking at the face, your 23R resistance reading should be between the pin on the left and the middle pin. Is that what you have?
                              Attached Files
                              "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                This is the datasheet linked on the part that I ordered.
                                https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...2FV2WWZw%3D%3D

                                I used it for reference and marked the pins just to show which I was referring to, it wasn't meant to be exact, but the numbers are in the wrong order, the one you linked matches the one I got directly from ON.

                                According to the diagram left to right ignoring my numbering mistake, to correct myself

                                pin 3 to pin 2 = 98.7k *
                                pin 1 to pin 3 = 23.3R

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