Cool trick for drilling out a washer

[glebert]

Don't know if everyone but me already knew this, but I was struggling to do this and got a good tip and it works well, so thought I would share. I have been struggling to replace the tuners on an old Ibanez bass because the original tuners had huge nut/washer things and are basically unobtanium at this point. I am ok with a smaller size nut but wanted a washer that was about the diameter of the original to keep a similar headstock look. Couldn't find anything that seemed right, either too big, too small, too thick, etc. Finally found some washers with right OD and acceptable thickness but the ID was too small and I couldn't figure out how to drill them out, specifically how to hold the washer while drilling out with a step drill. Some really helpful worker at my local Ace hardware store gave me this idea. Take a scrap of wood, drill a hole through it a little bigger than your desired ID. Put a washer down on that and than drive screws around the washer so that they clamp it down to the wood. Then you can take the step drill and open up the ID to your desired size. Low drill speed and higher downward force are usually recommended for drilling metal IIRC. Anyway, worked well for me, thought I would share.

[galaxiex]

Nice trick!

Similar.....

I had some washers that were the correct size ID and OD, but too thick.

I used a spade bit same size as the washer OD to make a shallow "pocket" in a piece of wood. (2X4)

The washer fit snug in the pocket with just a few thou above the surface.

A few minutes with a sander and they came out the perfect thickness.

Thinking that a similar pocket in the wood with just a couple screws to clamp the washer down,
would also work for enlarging the center hole.

A more permanent fixture would be to machine a pocket in a piece of metal (steel or other) to fit the washer.

[tedmich]

I've held washers in vice grips to drill out but your way holds them flat, so thanks!

The Temo M35 step drills on ebay are my current favorite bits; they cut hardened metal well, are cheap and re sharpen with a flat diamond stone or SiC paper on a granite flat, unlike oddball round ground step bits (Irwin etc)

[nickb]

I've held washers in vice grips to drill out but your way holds them flat, so thanks!

The Temo M35 step drills on ebay are my current favorite bits; they cut hardened metal well, are cheap and re sharpen with a flat diamond stone or SiC paper on a granite flat, unlike oddball round ground step bits (Irwin etc)

I've never had any luck sharpening these. Could you tell me more about your technique?

[nevetslab]

This holding method would work great using Taper Reamers if you need to get to a specific ID. I have a full set of Taper Reamers, from #1 thru #15, I think it is. While they're meant to work with Taper Pins, they work great enlarging holes to what you need, rather than using a twist drill. I never did invest in a Step-Drill as you're using here.

[glebert]

I never did invest in a Step-Drill as you're using here.

Mine are just the $8 set of three from Harbor Freight. They have paid for themselves many times over.

[tedmich]

I've never had any luck sharpening these. Could you tell me more about your technique?

you just run the small flute over a diamond flat until its again proud vs the large flute, as they get rounded off with use. Its like this fancy diamond wheel shows:

I just use a diamond flat like DMT, same as many router bits resharpen Just break the burr and its good to go!

Also fairly obvious why fancy grinds can't be done

These unibits are ground with a toroidal stone


these bits are CNC ground in a helix! No flat grind = no resharpen

[Randall]

Cool idea, but haven't you now removed the plating on the ID? Or is it stainless?

[Jon Snell]

After making a mess in my workshop and numerous plasters for cut fingers back in the 80s, I purchased one of these and still use it today.
Punches Aluminium up to 3mm thick, steel up to 2mm thick and stainless steel up to 1.5mm.

[glebert]

Cool idea, but haven't you now removed the plating on the ID? Or is it stainless?

I rarely play my bass in the rain, so not too worried about corrosion. I am also spraying on some metallic paint to color match my tuners and will probably hit them with some polyurethane before installing as well.