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GK 250ML Blowing Fuse

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  • #16
    Mouser is always my first stop.

    MPSA06
    https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductor...&FS=True&bws=1

    MPSA56
    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...2F2UWAHWX7Y%3D

    They don't have the TIP though.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    • #17
      Well I'll be a son of a ....... I usually check mouser and Digikey first. On these I must have only checked Digikey. However none of it matters if I can't locate a TIP34C or equivalent.

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      • #18
        Quest Components has the TIP34C.
        https://www.questcomp.com/part/4/tip34c/405982966
        Edit: My bad. That's the SOT-93 package.

        EDIT#2: SOT-93 is the same as TO-218, which looks like the package you have in the first photo. The second photo looks like the TO-247 package.

        As an aside, don't forget about http://www.octopart.com as a search engine for these types of things as well.
        Last edited by Delta362; 05-11-2021, 06:35 PM.

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        • #19
          Digikey has all of them.

          https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...oCWADgMwAsKNQA
          TO218, but just use an insulator.

          https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...A56-AP/2233955

          https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...SA06RA/1048776
          "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Enzo View Post
            Mouser is always my first stop.

            MPSA06
            https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductor...&FS=True&bws=1

            MPSA56
            https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...2F2UWAHWX7Y%3D

            They don't have the TIP though.
            Enzo I have read on another thread here that the TIP33C and TIP34C can be replaced with TIP35C and TIP36C. Being you have had a lot of experiences with this particular amp I figured you would know first hand. And if so I imagine that it would be best to change them on both amps in here......is that assumption correct?

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            • #21
              If I had a working channel I would leave it alone...it works. Transistors don't "wear out", they just fail. They might run for thirty years.

              TIP35C/36C? Sure, why not? They are beefier versions of the other.
              Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Enzo View Post
                If I had a working channel I would leave it alone...it works. Transistors don't "wear out", they just fail. They might run for thirty years.

                TIP35C/36C? Sure, why not? They are beefier versions of the other.
                So would one side sound off from the other?.....or nothing would change in the sound.

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                • #23
                  Shouldn't sound different. Remember SS amps are massively fed back and they " correct" errors on their own..
                  Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                  • #24
                    Quick question.......while checking the components around Q14 (shorted) I checked C48 which is rated at 10nf. It reads 70nf....... should that be a concern and replaced? I almost mistaked it for a resistor until I saw it on the schematic.



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                    Last edited by sweatyk; 05-22-2021, 02:33 PM.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by sweatyk View Post
                      Quick question.......while checking the components around Q14 (shorted) I checked C48 which is rated at 10nf. It reads 70nf
                      Rated at 10nF by it's colour code, or according to the schematic?

                      Originally posted by Enzo
                      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                      • #26
                        Both. It is just a stability cap, it won't stop the amp from working.
                        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                        • #27
                          I would still measure the cap for leakage resistance or just replace it.
                          - Own Opinions Only -

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by g1 View Post
                            Rated at 10nF by it's colour code, or according to the schematic?
                            The schematic shows it to be ceramic 103

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by sweatyk View Post
                              I checked C48 which is rated at 10nf. It reads 70nf.......



                              Click image for larger version Name:	PXL_20210521_220748048.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.22 MB ID:	932645
                              Your meter shows you are set to manual ranging on the '47uF to 470mF' range. You need better resolution. Try switching to the '0 to 47nF' range.
                              Or autorange function.
                              Originally posted by Enzo
                              I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                              • #30
                                Dammit.....good catch g1......dang rookie mistake, but I should know better......I have brought shame to my family.....I must fall upon my sword.


                                Click image for larger version

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