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  • #16
    Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
    About your funky Atoms, did they have a date code? All (except the low value, low voltage) ones I've ever seen are date coded, all the way back to the days when they had yellow plastic jackets before the "modern" blue ones.
    I think I knew that.?. Because way back when I could buy them at the local electronics brick and mortar operation they were selling them in plastic and cardboard containers hung on a rack display and they had an easily deciphered date code printed right on the package so that sales staff could practice stock rotation. I have to admit that I never even tried to research any date code to see if the ones I had to replace were expired. Since the date code was no longer, ya know, A DATE! That would have meant some research on my part. Since I probably wouldn't have been able to equitably get a refund it was so much easier to just replace the bad caps and make a snap judgement
    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

    "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
    You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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    • #17
      Ceriatone amps have some decent looking caps in them and many rated at 600v. I can't recall what brand they were, but I never found them for sale. For bypass caps I use Vishay axials. If you go up a few steps with voltage rating you can match the size and lead length of vintage caps. A modern 100v cap is the same size as an old 25v one.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Chuck H View Post

        I think I knew that.?. Because way back when I could buy them at the local electronics brick and mortar operation they were selling them in plastic and cardboard containers hung on a rack display and they had an easily deciphered date code printed right on the package so that sales staff could practice stock rotation. I have to admit that I never even tried to research any date code to see if the ones I had to replace were expired. Since the date code was no longer, ya know, A DATE! That would have meant some research on my part. Since I probably wouldn't have been able to equitably get a refund it was so much easier to just replace the bad caps and make a snap judgement
        Good story Chuck. Here's another. As it happened, last year I had an opportunity to grab boxes & boxes full of old Sprague & Mallory electrolytic caps, also aluminum multisection caps. Gobs of 'em, easily enough to pack a full size pickup truck. For maybe $200 the lot. When I had a closer peek, the newest ones sported date codes in the 1980's. Some of the Atoms even had the orange/yellow wrappers from the 60's & 70's. I passed on the deal, and they all went to the dumpster. Properly so. Too bad they weren't fresher, then you would have seen 'em offered cheap in MEF's Flea Market. Oh well.

        Mick, I gave the story, at least what I understand of it, about Ceria's "Holy Grail" caps in my first reply. With a name like that, Ceria's surely missing out on a marketing opportunity. It's a wonder some counterfeiter hasn't picked up on it. Woops, let's not give 'em any ideas!
        This isn't the future I signed up for.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
          Mick, I gave the story, at least what I understand of it, about Ceria's "Holy Grail" caps in my first reply. With a name like that, Ceria's surely missing out on a marketing opportunity. It's a wonder some counterfeiter hasn't picked up on it. Woops, let's not give 'em any ideas!
          Hey, sorry about that - I must have had an absent moment when I read through the posts. Thanks for the reminder of the brand, I was trying to remember what they were called.

          Another brand I've used a lot of is MIEC. I really rate these and have used them for quite a few recap jobs. 105 degree and much lower ESR than F&T.

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          • #20
            Agree with the MIEC caps.
            I like these caps alot, but sometimes can find that they are in short supply.
            ​​​I don't know alot about them, however in my humble opinion they seem as though they have alot of positive attributes going on for them.
            I have been able to source these through several smaller retail vendors online.
            ​​​​​They are really quite inexpensive.
            I often have found many listings for more obscure and non modern day prewar values such as the values used in older tweed amps.
            The offer decent selections in working voltages of 500v and up.
            They offer the biggest selection of axial caps.
            They are produced to more modern and exacting tolerances and materials.
            ​​​​​​Their specifications claim much longer shelf and working life and operate at a greater temperature and they have exceedingly lower ESR .
            Due to the modern materials and production technologies they are produced in a much, much, much, much, (4×'s) or less smaller package design!
            The negative attribute to the smaller modern material axial package is that sometimes the lead length might be too short for vintage applications and to the vain boutique purists these caps don't look the vintage part.
            However, due to their smaller diminutive size and higher temperature coefficient, they work very nicely for building your own counterfeit caps or for rebuilding by restuffing original vintage cap bodies and thus preserve the antiquity appearance of period correct equipment.
            I have been restuffing caps on numerous restorations of Blackface and Tweed era amps and recently restuffed a multican Daly cap in old Plexi era Marshall.

            A Previous post mentioned tossing a truckload of vintage NOS electrolytics?
            I get with the why you were saying for doing that but still it seems terribly regrettable. I would have taken the whole lot for my own personal consumption.
            I know that the whole idea of reforming caps is controversial, however I am always forming caps and even exercise new caps before installation. I have had very good results. As a matter of fact that is my true diffinative test before loading into the actual application. I woulda loved to run a lot of this truckload thru a good dynamic burn in of reforming them. If they did all suck? More cap bodies to have on hand to restuff/rebuild with MEIC !
            DISCLAIMER:
            I dunno, I am only a neophyte and a hack but that is my take as a lone consumer and part time Amphack uh, I mean wannabe Amptech and fan boy.... Any resemblance of a pro is only my proficiency for being a poser!
            Phineus J. Whoopy, you are the greatest! May just get one more peek at that three dimensional blackboard please?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by dugdiamond View Post
              A Previous post mentioned tossing a truckload of vintage NOS electrolytics?
              I get with the why you were saying for doing that but still it seems terribly regrettable. I would have taken the whole lot for my own personal consumption.
              I know that the whole idea of reforming caps is controversial, however I am always forming caps and even exercise new caps before installation. I have had very good results. As a matter of fact that is my true diffinative test before loading into the actual application. I woulda loved to run a lot of this truckload thru a good dynamic burn in of reforming them. If they did all suck? More cap bodies to have on hand to restuff/rebuild with MEIC !
              That was me, wish we had been in touch last October then you'd have a big pile of can caps to play with. Not all of those caps were voltage values used in tube amps.l But who cares, if you're re-stuffing them. If I ever run across a similar deal, I'll try to find this thread. Meanwhile, any use for a dozen or so beer can caps, 1000 uF 450V ? Date code 1966. They look unused. Don't be vague, ask for Sprague! They've been lurking around here nearly a decade.
              This isn't the future I signed up for.

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              • #22
                I just began using MIEC axial lead caps. And, on this Vox Beatle Super Reverb restoration project, I've tried the Epcos/TDK Axial 2200uF/40V and 1000uF/100V Axial Electrolytics. Large body. Added to those the Vishay/BC 470uF/63V Axial Electrolytics. Both of these brands have date codes which I like.

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