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JMP1 preamp battery replacement - solder or glue it in?

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  • JMP1 preamp battery replacement - solder or glue it in?

    I'm replacing the battery in a Marshall JMP1 preamp.
    The original was spot welded (soldered) to the top and bottom clips, most likely as a way to keep it from slipping off when carried.

    I'm wondering how to secure the replacement battery.

    The top clip could be soldered fairly easily, but the bottom would be somewhat challenging.

    It's also possible to sandwich the battery between the clips and hold it in place with some glue.

    What's the best way to do this (if one were to pretend to be professional?

    I think soldering it in would do it. The main concern is whether the heat could ruin the battery.

    Thanks
    Last edited by PRNDL; 09-08-2008, 07:07 PM.
    See the birth of a 2-watt tube guitar amp - the "Dyno Tweed"
    http://www.naturdoctor.com/Chapters/Amps/DynoTweed.html

  • #2
    If one were being professional and all, one would either get the battery with solder tabs already welded to it, OR one would get a real battery holder.

    Those tabs are not soldered to the battery, try it and you will destroy the battery.

    This is a coin cell, right?

    Battery:


    Holder:



    You can order standard battery types like the CR2032 WITH solder tabs for pc mount. There are various footprints for them, so check that. Many times, I replace the battery with a battery holder, then a standard coin cell slips into the holder, no more solder. Then in the future the battery can be changed out with a new one from any store.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    • #3
      Thanks Enzo ... I'm really glad I asked BEFORE soldering!

      Mouser has a part that looks like the one.
      Part # 614-HU2430-LF
      Battery Holders THRU HOLE USE CR2430

      http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...RiSLwXNQ%3d%3d

      Thanks again.
      See the birth of a 2-watt tube guitar amp - the "Dyno Tweed"
      http://www.naturdoctor.com/Chapters/Amps/DynoTweed.html

      Comment


      • #4
        FYI- coin-cell numbers reflect their dimensions, ergo a CR2032 is 20mm diameter x 3.2mm thick. A CR2430 is 24mm dia. x 3.0mm thick.....get it?

        The reason you must go up to a 24mm battery when converting to a holder is for the wider pin spread. The CR2032MH (the one with the pins welded on) has a full 20mm pin spread, whereas the CR2032 holder's spread is about 16mm. In any case, the CR2430 will last longer because of the higher mAH rating. The voltage (3.0V) remains the same, as for most coin cells.
        John R. Frondelli
        dBm Pro Audio Services, New York, NY

        "Mediocre is the new 'Good' "

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        • #5
          In case of any confusion, I used 2032 ONLY as an example.


          John is right. Batteries come in sizes and the pc tabs are not all the same spacing, nor are the holders. Always check the spacing on whichever thing you are planning to solder in. Even same size coin cells can come in more than one pin plan.

          A bigger battery might last longer, and if the voltage is the same, then why not. On the other hand, the things tend to last 10-15-20 years anyway. There is precious little current draw from them, so they pretty much last their shelf life. It will mean the difference between replacing it in 12 years instead of 10.
          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

          Comment


          • #6
            I ordered an official replacement part from a Marshall dealer. At $12 it was a rip compared with $3 from Mouser, but I couldn't find any that had the correct pin spacing (not even close). I figured it was better safe than sorry.
            See the birth of a 2-watt tube guitar amp - the "Dyno Tweed"
            http://www.naturdoctor.com/Chapters/Amps/DynoTweed.html

            Comment


            • #7
              Try the CR2430-T25. These are direct replacement tagged cells for horizontal PCB mounting.

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