I have a new Fender 59 Bassman 410 combo amp on the bench, which was sent over under the guise of having tube rattles. I removed the upper rear panel, unscrewed the grounding wire between the chassis and the foil on that rear panel, and had a look mechanically. Then, fetched my flexible shaft 1/4" socket driver & 11/32" deep dish socket to check/tighten the four speaker's mounting screws. Of course, with the chassis installed, you can't get at the top screws on the upper pair of 10's. All were solid/tight.
I connected my Sine-Warble Generator (B & K 1023) via long speaker cable to clip onto the four speaker's wiring, and engaged the output to sweep the cabinet. Resonance city....CABINET resonances....NOT Tube rattles, as I expected. I replaced the 11/32" socket with a 5/16" socket, and with a #2 Philips screwdriver, tightened the five baffle mounting screws/nuts I could get at. The top middle screw is not accessible due to the Fender Emblem, and the nut is only accessible by removing the amplifier assembly. Tightening those up with the oscillator tuned to the various resonances, I nulled those out. The biggest resonances were from the amplifier mounting screws...which are two #10-32 Truss Head screws and hex keps nuts on the inside top of the chassis at both sides. Plus a third flange beyond the power xfmr. Tightening those got the majority of the resonances out.
I changed from driving the speakers directly to plugging the signal source into the amp input and driving it directly. Many of the resonances occurring above 150Hz disappeared, leaving those below 82Hz with no direct solution. Pressing on the middle of the speaker baffle would cut that out, though it is level dependent. I thought about maybe installing cleats on the left and right sides of the cabinet thru which I could tighten the baffle up to those. But, the baffle is removed from the inside of an empty cabinet, so those cleats would have to be removable.
I also thought about making a wooden frame, attached to the side walls, centered about the middle of the two vertical pairs of speakers, then with a dado'd cross brace on the baffle between the four speakers, tying that to the frame to dampen the baffle from the middle. I looked around the absence of a wood shop in my lab, and chuckled, Fat chance that's gonna happen.
I did tighten up ALL of the chassis hardware....those of the four RCA speaker connectors, the PCB mounting screws, further tightening of the chassis mtg screws...all while the amp/cabinet was being driven at various resonances. I got it to where the remaining resonances are below 82 Hz (Low E on the Guitar). Turning up the warble-sine wave signal will still excite the cabinet to resonate, but it's a far cry better than what I had to start with. Amp looks brand new. These resonance issues are typical of the Hot Rod Series, the Blues Deluxe, and a few others built in this fashion. The upper rear panel, mounting to the rear cabinet side cleats use the traditional Oval head chrome #6 wood screws with the FH cup washers. The upper left corner screw just kept stripping and the corner of the panel was forced out from being fully seated. I changed to #6 x 1-1/4" Truss Head SS screws, leaving the cup washers in place, drove that in which pulled the panel flush. Replaced the other three so they all looked the same, and had further anti-resonance mounting.
So much for stock Fender amps working as expected, without the amp 'singing' out of tune with your playing.
I connected my Sine-Warble Generator (B & K 1023) via long speaker cable to clip onto the four speaker's wiring, and engaged the output to sweep the cabinet. Resonance city....CABINET resonances....NOT Tube rattles, as I expected. I replaced the 11/32" socket with a 5/16" socket, and with a #2 Philips screwdriver, tightened the five baffle mounting screws/nuts I could get at. The top middle screw is not accessible due to the Fender Emblem, and the nut is only accessible by removing the amplifier assembly. Tightening those up with the oscillator tuned to the various resonances, I nulled those out. The biggest resonances were from the amplifier mounting screws...which are two #10-32 Truss Head screws and hex keps nuts on the inside top of the chassis at both sides. Plus a third flange beyond the power xfmr. Tightening those got the majority of the resonances out.
I changed from driving the speakers directly to plugging the signal source into the amp input and driving it directly. Many of the resonances occurring above 150Hz disappeared, leaving those below 82Hz with no direct solution. Pressing on the middle of the speaker baffle would cut that out, though it is level dependent. I thought about maybe installing cleats on the left and right sides of the cabinet thru which I could tighten the baffle up to those. But, the baffle is removed from the inside of an empty cabinet, so those cleats would have to be removable.
I also thought about making a wooden frame, attached to the side walls, centered about the middle of the two vertical pairs of speakers, then with a dado'd cross brace on the baffle between the four speakers, tying that to the frame to dampen the baffle from the middle. I looked around the absence of a wood shop in my lab, and chuckled, Fat chance that's gonna happen.
I did tighten up ALL of the chassis hardware....those of the four RCA speaker connectors, the PCB mounting screws, further tightening of the chassis mtg screws...all while the amp/cabinet was being driven at various resonances. I got it to where the remaining resonances are below 82 Hz (Low E on the Guitar). Turning up the warble-sine wave signal will still excite the cabinet to resonate, but it's a far cry better than what I had to start with. Amp looks brand new. These resonance issues are typical of the Hot Rod Series, the Blues Deluxe, and a few others built in this fashion. The upper rear panel, mounting to the rear cabinet side cleats use the traditional Oval head chrome #6 wood screws with the FH cup washers. The upper left corner screw just kept stripping and the corner of the panel was forced out from being fully seated. I changed to #6 x 1-1/4" Truss Head SS screws, leaving the cup washers in place, drove that in which pulled the panel flush. Replaced the other three so they all looked the same, and had further anti-resonance mounting.
So much for stock Fender amps working as expected, without the amp 'singing' out of tune with your playing.
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