Thing is your silly little for-babys US plugs with your puny 110v, vs our much more masculine 240v & our proper big fully grown man size plugs with the all important green wire in.. can be put into a convenient small enclosure, so you don't see so many like so with our proper plugs on here.
What's kinda weird is that everyone is using the same box, switch and plug arrangement.?. Mine is just a ceramic base and socket like the one in Jason's post (sans conduit box, just the ceramic base) with a male AC on one end of the cord and a female AC on the other. I understand the switch allows a fast response if something is REALLY wrong. But if that's the case I know it instantly and have either the plug in my hand (so just unplug) or the amp switch (just flip it).
I thought something like my minimalist version was what everyone used. Now I see that everyone has two plugs and a switch.
I guess we're just old. Or they like features. I'm still unclear why one ever needs more than a 40watt bulb as its just to check for shorts or wiring errors.......
nosaj
soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!
I guess we're just old. Or they like features. I'm still unclear why one ever needs more than a 40watt bulb as its just to check for shorts or wiring errors.......
nosaj
Actually the reason I ask the q in #1, is that I saw no light illuminate & possibly only had at best a 60w. Maybe it was a 40w. Not easy to source 100w here now.
So I think the limiter only works with a minimum 60 or 100w bulb?
That's more than my brain can cope with. But think though this means.. there's no socket then for the amp. Hm.. not sure it's gonna be a useful exercise TC.
The purpose of the limiter is to limit the max. current supplied to the amp, so that fuse blowing is avoided while the "dimmed" operation of the amp allows for some measurements without risking further damage (of course, all voltages will be lower than nominal).
A 60W lamp limits amp input current to 250mA@240V, i.e. at full brightness. At less than full brightness the current is lower than 250mA.
My limiter came in handy the other day when working on an old supro 1949. After removing the chassis and doing some of the work that needed to be done, I forgot that the output transformer was mounted on the speaker frame apart from the chassis, and went to test it under load. Connected the output from the chassis to the 8ohm load as essential shorted the plate to ground.
im reading the current draw as it starts to heat up
and I’m thinking “man this things biased real hot”
I knew something wasn’t right from the bulb. I figured it out pretty quick
If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.
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