Peavey Monitor Head 260 Jewel Light Question

[sstef]

I just got this amp. Wired in a new mains cable with a proper grommet. The jewel light was dead so I wired in a new socket. But I put a 6.3 volt bulb in and it popped immediately. The original looked like it had a resistor and LEDs (if it was original...)

I suspect I have got 120 volts at the socket now, so I will just get a bayonet BA9S LED that works at 120v.

Anyway, does anyone have the actual manual/schematic? PV does not have this model in their archive, just the one with a graphic EQ. This one has the "anti-feedback" pots, that switch off, and sweep a tone defeat for low/high.

[sstef]

here is what the front looks like

[J M Fahey]

. The jewel light was dead so I wired in a new socket. But I put a 6.3 volt bulb in and it popped immediately. The original looked like it had a resistor and LEDs (if it was original...)

I suspect I have got 120 volts at the socket now, so I will just get a bayonet BA9S LED that works at 120v.

!) where did you wire it to?

2) what voltage do you measure across lamp socket terminals? (no bulb in it)

3) it might use Neon bulb with 100k or so in series, fed 120V Mains.

4) post schematic you found here.
Your problem is not with the graphic equalizer but pilot light, and in general the same yer they will use the same across the range.

Highly possible ALL e amps that year used same pilot light circuit.

FWIW I distinctly remember when I switched from 220V Neon pilot lights to Red Leds (mid 70´s?) "just like Acoustic amps did" and it felt oh so modern!!!

People was NOT used to it and I had complaints for about a year about "broken power switches" because "they turned amps OFF yet light stayed ON" go figure.

[Helmholtz]

What voltage do you measure between the socket terminals?

[Enzo]

You could find a mini-bayonette bulb for 120v. I have a few in stock, and have used exactly zero of them in the last 30 years. The Peavey pilot was likely a 120v neon indicator. They come as an assembly with internal resistor. They are wired directly across the 120vAC. You can find such indicators in the local hardware store most likely. Or of course order from Mouser et al. I myself prefer to stick with the indicator thingie since it means less exposed 120v stuff, and no one will make the mistake in the future of sticking a 6v lamp in the socket. Not only that, they might ASSUME the socket is wired to 6v and touch it or short it to chassis.

[Jazz P Bass]

Odd.
I looked through my Peavey schematics for this type of head.
No pilot lights on any schematic except for this one MK III.
I presume that the - designator is -15Vdc.

[Enzo]

Oh this is way older than a Mark 3 series.

[The Dude]

............it might use Neon bulb with 100k or so in series, fed 120V Mains............

That!

[sstef]

I found some bayonet 120v LED "bulbs" that I will try when they arrive. This is the old piece. Cannot tell what the value of resistance is from the outside, and I have no schematic for this old guy...

[drewl]

Carefully cut it open to see the resistor.

[The Dude]

Most prefabbed neon indicators have any necessary resistance built in. They are "plug-n-play". A 120V bayonet lamp would work, too, but if you want a neon, measure it up for size and look here:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...ABJjoALbSkrpAA

[Enzo]

They come ready to wire in. No need to find resistors. Example:
https://www.grainger.com/product/20C...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Enzo]

I used to buy them at local hardware stores. Electrical supply houses should have them - where your local electricians buy stuff. Appliance parts stores should have them. They are used as an ON light on like a dryer or the panel of my stove to indicate a burner or oven is on.

[g1]

You installed a bayonet socket that you want to use, does it have a cover like a jewel lamp type? With the socket being wired to 120V, you do not want to leave it exposed.
For the record, the piece you replaced is marked 125V. Thinking you could use a 6.3V in there and wire it up like the original without checking puts you in rather dangerous territory. Please be careful.

[sstef]

You installed a bayonet socket that you want to use, does it have a cover like a jewel lamp type? With the socket being wired to 120V, you do not want to leave it exposed.
For the record, the piece you replaced is marked 125V. Thinking you could use a 6.3V in there and wire it up like the original without checking puts you in rather dangerous territory. Please be careful.

I'll probably get one of those pre-made indicators, or just use the LED 120v bayonets when they show up from china in a month... thanks everyone