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Ampeg B100R again...

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  • #16
    IC1 Pin1 .002 VDC Pin7 -.001 Pin8 .003...
    I'm not old - I'm vintage

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    • #17
      I think that the 9V at TP4 may be coming back from IC2. And if IC2 is fried that would explain why the +/-20V rails are skewed.
      At this point I would just snip out IC2 (they're cheap) and see if TP4 goes to 0VDC. If it stays at 9V then replace IC1 as well.
      I say snip out because the traces are usually pretty flimsy (or double sided board) and it's a lot easier to de-solder and remove the pins if they are just cut off. For cheap IC's on newer style boards, that is often the best way to go.
      Originally posted by Enzo
      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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      • #18
        Guess I'll order some IC's
        I'm not old - I'm vintage

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        • #19
          Checking Digi-Key & Mouser - there are many iterations of NE5532 & TL074 - with the form I need not much available, hmm

          Oh wait, Newark has some. What is the difference between all the variations?
          I'm not old - I'm vintage

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          • #20
            NE is manufacturer specific. Looking for 5532 op amps in Mouser and in a DIP package, they have four choices in stock.

            Looking for TL074 op amps in 14 pin DIP Mouser has six choices in stock.
            Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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            • #21
              Thanks Enzo, I was searching for NE5532 - a search for 5532 gets better results. I learn something every time you post to me.
              Another 50 years I should be much wiser...
              I'm not old - I'm vintage

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              • #22
                g1 - I've ordered the parts from Mouser, added some sockets for the IC's & new insulators for the TIPs. Shipping $20 now, even more expensive than Newark ($12).
                Let's see if I can get the IC out without destroying the board... Thanks for your help so far - don't think we are out of the wood yet though.
                I'm not old - I'm vintage

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by mtlbasslad View Post
                  g1 - I've ordered the parts from Mouser, added some sockets for the IC's & new insulators for the TIPs. Shipping $20 now, even more expensive than Newark ($12).
                  I know the pricing and stock is a little bit poorer, but in Canada Digikey has the best shipping. $8 flat rate for delivery usually the next day or two. You have to use the .ca website. I believe they have a warehouse in Canada now, so no border or customs delays. Mouser was sometimes taking 2 weeks for me.
                  For US customers, I think mouser has the best options, more stock, and a bit cheaper pricing.
                  Originally posted by Enzo
                  I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                  • #24
                    I looked at Digikey, Mouser & Newark - some sites had some things but not all, so I went with Mouser (CA) who had all the parts. I decided to add IC sockets & new insulators for the TIPs.
                    Tried your suggestion about clipping the leads on the ICs - my clippers way to big so unsoldered the 5532... Parts will be here Wed maybe, stand by for updates.
                    PS 'north of Fargo' - are you in The Peg?
                    I'm not old - I'm vintage

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by mtlbasslad View Post
                      are you in The Peg?
                      No but I have lived there. I'm out in the country now down south of there near the border.

                      Originally posted by Enzo
                      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                      • #26
                        Parts arrived this aft - soldered in socket for 5532, checked no shorts & all pins contacting (those traces are very thin). Plugged in 5532 & tested...
                        TP5 is now -15VDC TP6 -15VDC Pin 4 -17VDC Pin 8 -23VDC.
                        Didn't get any farther time to make anniversary supper...
                        I'm not old - I'm vintage

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                        • #27
                          Joan loved the steak/frites with fried onions...

                          TP4 is still at -9.7VDC - guess I'll pull IC1 tomorrow...
                          I'm not old - I'm vintage

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                          • #28
                            Pulled IC1 & soldered in a socket, installed new IC1

                            TP4 is still -9.7 VDC ugh... TP1 -0.2 TP2 +13 TP3 -12
                            A bit discouraged here -what next?
                            I'm not old - I'm vintage

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                            • #29
                              Curious that TP1 went from being 0.002V to 0.2V when you didn't change anything there. I would be measuring voltages at the input of IC1 (pins 2,3) with no input.

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                              • #30
                                glebert - thanks for checking in and welcome to my nightmare...

                                IC1 Pin2 +0.2VDC Pin3 +0.2VDC
                                I'm not old - I'm vintage

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