IC1 Pin1 .002 VDC Pin7 -.001 Pin8 .003...
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Ampeg B100R again...
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I think that the 9V at TP4 may be coming back from IC2. And if IC2 is fried that would explain why the +/-20V rails are skewed.
At this point I would just snip out IC2 (they're cheap) and see if TP4 goes to 0VDC. If it stays at 9V then replace IC1 as well.
I say snip out because the traces are usually pretty flimsy (or double sided board) and it's a lot easier to de-solder and remove the pins if they are just cut off. For cheap IC's on newer style boards, that is often the best way to go.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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NE is manufacturer specific. Looking for 5532 op amps in Mouser and in a DIP package, they have four choices in stock.
Looking for TL074 op amps in 14 pin DIP Mouser has six choices in stock.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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g1 - I've ordered the parts from Mouser, added some sockets for the IC's & new insulators for the TIPs. Shipping $20 now, even more expensive than Newark ($12).
Let's see if I can get the IC out without destroying the board... Thanks for your help so far - don't think we are out of the wood yet though.I'm not old - I'm vintage
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For US customers, I think mouser has the best options, more stock, and a bit cheaper pricing.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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I looked at Digikey, Mouser & Newark - some sites had some things but not all, so I went with Mouser (CA) who had all the parts. I decided to add IC sockets & new insulators for the TIPs.
Tried your suggestion about clipping the leads on the ICs - my clippers way to big so unsoldered the 5532... Parts will be here Wed maybe, stand by for updates.
PS 'north of Fargo' - are you in The Peg?I'm not old - I'm vintage
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