Peavey Classic 30 1x12 gone dead

[dbs_lover]

I just bought a second hand Peavey Classic 30. It played fine and made it through one gig but since the gig it will not make a sound. It will power on but none of the tubes (power and preamp) light up. There is absolutely no noise coming out of the speaker on either channel with the normal, post, or pre knobs turned all the way up. Anyone got any advice on how to diagnose and fix this problem? Thanks in advance.

[Enzo]

Sure, first, open it up and check the internal fuses. Pull them from their clips and measure each with a meter, don't just check visually. Besides, you can't check the ceramic fuse visually anyway. If it is blown, a glass fuse in its place is fine.

[dbs_lover]

Sure, first, open it up and check the internal fuses. Pull them from their clips and measure each with a meter, don't just check visually. Besides, you can't check the ceramic fuse visually anyway. If it is blown, a glass fuse in its place is fine.

Thanks for your reply. Pardon my ignorance but what type of meter would I use to test the fuse? This is the first tube amp I've ever owned and I don't know much about maintaining them other than changing tubes.

[Chuck H]

You'll just be checking the fuses to see if any are open. It's the same as car fuses or home breakers. They are open or not. Other than the current rating at which they will open (or "blow") there is no other electronic parameter that matters for a fuse. Any ohm meter will work, Your looking for 0 ohms (or very close to it) for a good fuse and infinity ohms for a blown fuse.

Chuck

[Enzo]

The ohms function of any meter. Or the continuity function would work well enough. A good fise has continuity, a bad fuse has no continuity, it is open.

[WaltC]

These babies are also notorious for bad solder joints on the PC-board for the filament circuit, and since all the tubes are on the same filament circuit and are daisy-chained, bad solder joints in the beginning affect all the following tubes in the amp.

These amps are also fairly difficult to work on because of the U-shaped design of three pc-board circuit boards connected w/ ribbon cable.

Since you're not familiar w/ checking the fuses w/ a multi-meter, checking and repair of the problem should it be anything other than replacing the fuse(s) probably should be left to a tech (no offense intended).

[tubeswell]

So when you go to pull the fuses out, try not to wriggle the boards, or you might inadvertently break one or more jumper wires, and/or traces - if they ain't broke already ;-)

I've got one of these, it is one of my favourite pets, esp. with Steve A's mods