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Ampeg PF-350 repair

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  • Ampeg PF-350 repair

    Arrived with blown 6.3A mains fuse and obvious smoke residue at FETs. I'm just starting to probe components to decide what to order. Schematics attached here.

    First, component TH3 is measuring shorted, and I'm wondering if this is a fault. I THINK this device should normally be open. Part number is 67L060, and datasheet is linked here.

    Click image for larger version

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    PF350 AMP and PSU ASSY.pdf

    PF350 AMP and PSU SCHEMATIC.pdf

    --
    I build and repair guitar amps
    http://amps.monkeymatic.com

  • #2
    According to datasheet, L indicates 'open on rise' so should be normally shorted til reaching spec temperature.
    Originally posted by Enzo
    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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    • #3
      Which FETs failed; Power supply Q1 & Q2 or amplifier output FETs Q10 & Q13?
      If power supply check the clamp circuits on each side, both high and low.
      If amplifier FETs, check the drivers after removing the output FETs.
      Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
      If you can't fix it, I probably can.

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      • #4
        This project has ended; owner declined to repair.

        One observation: Ampeg made this unit so you cannot remove a single FET by itself--you have to unsolder all the components that are screwed into the heat sink first, then remove the entire heat sink...THEN you can remove individual components from the heat sink.
        --
        I build and repair guitar amps
        http://amps.monkeymatic.com

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        • #5
          Well, easier to repair than a Roland KC 800 Keyboard amp.
          Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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          • #6
            Originally posted by xtian View Post
            One observation: Ampeg made this unit so you cannot remove a single FET by itself--you have to unsolder all the components that are screwed into the heat sink first, then remove the entire heat sink...THEN you can remove individual components from the heat sink.
            Could you not unscrew them (without de-soldering) and remove the heatsink? Or I guess the screws are blocked by other stuff?

            Originally posted by Enzo
            I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by g1 View Post
              Could you not unscrew them (without de-soldering) and remove the heatsink? Or I guess the screws are blocked by other stuff?
              Yes, the screws securing the FETs to the heat sink are blocked by the filter caps.
              --
              I build and repair guitar amps
              http://amps.monkeymatic.com

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              • #8
                Originally posted by xtian View Post

                Yes, the screws securing the FETs to the heat sink are blocked by the filter caps.
                Since they are owned by Yamaha, this reminds me of my Yamaha bike engine. It's almost perfect except you can't do a simple split of the bottom cases to work on the transmission. Of all the bolts holding the bottom together, there are 2 that are hidden away, requiring total removal of the heads and cylinders to split the bottom end.
                Originally posted by Enzo
                I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                Comment


                • #9
                  Pretty sure this amp was designed before Yamaha bought Ampeg. The tight layout is pretty consistent with other class D designs. It seems they basically assumed board replacement, not repair.

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                  • #10
                    So let me understand, you have to remove one cap or two to access the hardware?
                    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                    • #11
                      I have repaired two Ampeg PF500 amps by just buying new main boards and swapping them out. I admire anyone that can do a component lever repair on those complex and compact PCBs.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Enzo View Post
                        So let me understand, you have to remove one cap or two to access the hardware?
                        ^^^^^^^^That. Wouldn't it be easier to just unsolder a couple cap leads?
                        "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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                        • #13
                          In my limited and very frustrating experience with Ampeg class D amps, it is never just one component. There is usually glue covering half the board, sometimes multiple components in the way.

                          Like this PF500
                          Click image for larger version

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                          • #14
                            Yeah, looks like a pain.
                            Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                            • #15
                              Give it the "horse cure." I.e., shoot.
                              --
                              I build and repair guitar amps
                              http://amps.monkeymatic.com

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