Originally posted by mtlbasslad
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Ampeg GS-15R Gemini VI
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Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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I can't hear any difference in the hum. Jumpers removed...
When I installed the 'balance' pot I tested it & set it at the midpoint, about 50 ohms each side. Now that it's installed I read 50 ohms 1 side & 1 ohm on the redplating side... hmm.
Voltages for the 2 7591's:
V1 (redplating) V2
Pin1 492v 492
2 6v 6
3 490v 493
4 486v 488
5 0v 1
6 -26v -26
7 6.2v 6.2
V1 pin 5? Bad tube?
I'm not old - I'm vintage
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Is there an additional wire connecting to V1 pin 5? The cathodes should only connect to the outer lugs of the balance pot.
Looks as if V1 pin 5 is somehow grounded.
The balance pot wiper (middle lug) must connect only to ground - not to any of the outer pot ends.Last edited by Helmholtz; 06-15-2022, 09:34 PM.- Own Opinions Only -
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostIs there an additional wire connecting to V1 pin 5? The cathodes should only connect to the outer lugs of the balance pot.
Looks as if V1 pin 5 is somehow grounded.
The balance pot wiper (middle lug) must connect only to ground - not to any of the outer pot ends.I'm not old - I'm vintage
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Originally posted by mtlbasslad View Post- only connection to cathodes (Pin 5) was a jumper between V1 & V2.
I'm trying to find an explanation for your resistance and (low) cathode voltage readings.
With a 100R pot both sides must always add up to 100R - except if there's some external bypass/short.
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Originally posted by mtlbasslad View PostNow that it's installed I read 50 ohms 1 side & 1 ohm on the redplating side... hmm.
Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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OK, minor breakthrough here - when I migrated the wiring from the EL84 to 7591 I made careful notes about what went where. And that included a jumper from the 100uF/100V cap (near the bias, the copper colored one in the pics) to EL84 Pin3 - 7591 Pin5. This was a mistake, as studying the schematic it's not there - the mod to EL84's did that. So I removed that jumper & things changed - no more redplating.
However, trying to measure as g1 instructed, & playing with the 'balance' pot, I can only have 2 results:
Voltage at Pin5 both at 1.5V, V1 Pin3 is 5.5V V2 is 2.8V OR moving the pot to the other near extreme where V1 Pin3 is 4.1 & V2 3.9 then V1 Pin5 is 3.6 & V2 0.01. So can't seem to have my cake & eat it LOL
I guess I must have made another bad assumption when migrating...
Always remember that when I first swapped tubes the redplating follwed the tube...
I apologize for not reading the schematic right - only connection between cathodes (Pin5) is the balance pot...
Now what? Set the balance pot for plate current or?I'm not old - I'm vintage
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With unmatched tubes you can't have equal idle currents AND equal cathode voltages.
Goal is equal plate currents. Adjust the pot to get them close.
Easiest way is the method I described earlier - or adjust for minimum hum.
If perfect current matching isn't possible, your tubes are too different - or there's a wiring error.- Own Opinions Only -
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostWith unmatched tubes you can't have equal idle currents AND equal cathode voltages.
Goal is equal plate currents. Adjust the pot to get them close.
Easiest way is the method I described earlier - or adjust for minimum hum.
If perfect current matching isn't possible, your tubes are too different - or there's a wiring error.I'm not old - I'm vintage
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostI'm not old - I'm vintage
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For matched tubes that seems a bit far out. Check with meter that resistance of balance pot is roughly same on each side when set to middle.
Also recheck that screen grid voltages (pin4 & 8) are same for both tubes.
Then swap tubes around and see if readings follow tubes.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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