I was in the process of picking up some hardware for this KT88 Power Tube Test Fixture....present item is an IN-Line Fuse Holder that I was going to place in series with the rear panel HT Plate and Screen Test Points, where the fuse would be in series with 700VDC and 400VDC. Only there's a voltage rating on the fuse of 250VAC. Period. Or, 32V, in the case of Automotive Fuses.
Trying to find WHAT IS THE ACTUAL Voltage Rating on a fuse? Is what I'm attempting to do NOT a sensible or actually Dangerous thing to do? I saw on one of the in-line fuse holders, it had a 500V rating. The more traditional ones made by LIttelfuse and others are 250VAC rated.
The thought of having Full Current Potential behind what's on that rear panel Test Point...at Lethal Potentials make me want to have some protection.
Thus far, I haven't found anything on Littelfuse' website as to what the ACTUAL Maximum Voltage Potential is for a given fuse product line, such as a type 312 Fast Blow. I figured I'd place a low current fuse in line so nothing would happen connecting my DMM to that test point, but a fuse WOULD blow should some mistake be made, as all the test points on the rear panel are Tip Jacks.
Any thoughts??
Trying to find WHAT IS THE ACTUAL Voltage Rating on a fuse? Is what I'm attempting to do NOT a sensible or actually Dangerous thing to do? I saw on one of the in-line fuse holders, it had a 500V rating. The more traditional ones made by LIttelfuse and others are 250VAC rated.
The thought of having Full Current Potential behind what's on that rear panel Test Point...at Lethal Potentials make me want to have some protection.
Thus far, I haven't found anything on Littelfuse' website as to what the ACTUAL Maximum Voltage Potential is for a given fuse product line, such as a type 312 Fast Blow. I figured I'd place a low current fuse in line so nothing would happen connecting my DMM to that test point, but a fuse WOULD blow should some mistake be made, as all the test points on the rear panel are Tip Jacks.
Any thoughts??
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