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After having replaced the three-section 200V/60-60-40uF Cap Can just recently, using a somewhat clumsy approach (that did work), cutting a copper square that I soldered first to the twist-tab ring terminals that I salvaged from the aged CapCan, then soldered the cleaned-up copper to the plated steel chassis, I didn't have any blank non-copper clad G10 or FR4 1/16" Fiberglass sheet material that I could have cut to be mounted onto the chassis.
Having purchased the swagging tools to work with the discrete turret terminals on a recent build (Hiwatt DR201 Bass Amp clone), I had in one location on the power tube turret board, installed a pair of those turrets to allow the lead wires of the radial cap I used 220uF/450V to pass thru the thru-holes of the turrets, and added a touch of RTV on the bottom of the cap, and soldered the lead wires into place.
I have a Tektronix R5031 Dual Beam Storage Scope that probably has a bad capcan that finally shut down on me last year, and I haven't gotten back to that restoration project yet. I just checked McMaster-Carr to see what they had in G10 Fiberglass board (unclad), and perhaps FR4 (Fire Retardant version of G10). They didn't list the FR4 being available, but a 12" x 12" square of the G10 1/16" material was only a touch over $9 (plus tax/shpg).
On this Altec 316A I had just recapped, I had selected three 68uF/200V Radial Electrolytic Nichicon UVK series caps, 13mm dia & 5mm L/S. I just checked the turret terminals, and see the base dia of these turrets are also 5mm, so I can't use them on 5mm mtg centers, but could at 7.5mm centers. (The Lead Spacing would need to comply with minimum spacing for voltage potential to prevent arc-over).
In the example shown above, those are 10mm centers. So, that does seem like a better way of placing Radial Lead caps onto a fitted fiberglass board into the space where the cap can had been installed, and carefully placing swagged-in turrets to have solid lead mounting for solder connections. I had selected those 68uF/200V parts to potentially place them within the inside dia of the original can that was being replaced. I didn't know until later that can was a solid-filled part with the capacitor sections imbedded in the goop. The plan was to have the three caps clustered together. I hadn't yet thought about the fiberglass plate and swagged-in turret terminals. They would have fit within that ID of the can.
I'll post the results on the next retrofit trying this method.
Having purchased the swagging tools to work with the discrete turret terminals on a recent build (Hiwatt DR201 Bass Amp clone), I had in one location on the power tube turret board, installed a pair of those turrets to allow the lead wires of the radial cap I used 220uF/450V to pass thru the thru-holes of the turrets, and added a touch of RTV on the bottom of the cap, and soldered the lead wires into place.
I have a Tektronix R5031 Dual Beam Storage Scope that probably has a bad capcan that finally shut down on me last year, and I haven't gotten back to that restoration project yet. I just checked McMaster-Carr to see what they had in G10 Fiberglass board (unclad), and perhaps FR4 (Fire Retardant version of G10). They didn't list the FR4 being available, but a 12" x 12" square of the G10 1/16" material was only a touch over $9 (plus tax/shpg).
On this Altec 316A I had just recapped, I had selected three 68uF/200V Radial Electrolytic Nichicon UVK series caps, 13mm dia & 5mm L/S. I just checked the turret terminals, and see the base dia of these turrets are also 5mm, so I can't use them on 5mm mtg centers, but could at 7.5mm centers. (The Lead Spacing would need to comply with minimum spacing for voltage potential to prevent arc-over).
In the example shown above, those are 10mm centers. So, that does seem like a better way of placing Radial Lead caps onto a fitted fiberglass board into the space where the cap can had been installed, and carefully placing swagged-in turrets to have solid lead mounting for solder connections. I had selected those 68uF/200V parts to potentially place them within the inside dia of the original can that was being replaced. I didn't know until later that can was a solid-filled part with the capacitor sections imbedded in the goop. The plan was to have the three caps clustered together. I hadn't yet thought about the fiberglass plate and swagged-in turret terminals. They would have fit within that ID of the can.
I'll post the results on the next retrofit trying this method.
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