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Keep me from zapping myself?
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If you find R79 (390 ohm 5W resistor), it's the equivalent of a choke, more or less. That will have B+ on it. That would be the easiest place to tap for the discharge. Those small yellow caps aren't your main concern. The black cylinders are, but you don't have access to their leads directly.
You could also clip your lead to the standby switch (unplugged from the wall for sure!) and ground thru a resistor to chassis with the standby switch in the play position. Then it wouldn't matter which side of the standby switch you were connected to.
Edit: Looks like R79 would be the big green resistor beside the row of black caps in your second (zoomed in) photo.Attached Files
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All this disassembly to replace the LED under the jewel. It blinked a for about an hour in the middle of a session, finally quit. Hoping the solder joint failed. Haven’t gotten to it yet.
I only need on bulb (WHT T1 3/4 LED S-BRT BULK) according to the BOM. Might have to search a thrift store for a busted device just to scavenge a bulb unless Mouster or Digikey will ship the 18cent light cheap.
Thanks. I think R79 did the cap drain job.
oh, and thanks for the schematics.
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If I were you, I would replace the feed resistor for a somewhat more reasonable value.
R51 is 1.5k with 35 volts across it making 24mA. Too much current for an LED that is rated at 16mA. 2.2k will give you 16mA and this will give you reliability.Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
If you can't fix it, I probably can.
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