De soldering ?

[Chuck H]

I just did some quick looking around. I didn't see indications of a flux made specifically for lead free solder. The usual solution seems to simply be to use MORE flux for lead free solder. With this in mind I guess adding flux to your wick would make it lead free solder wick.

[nosaj]

I've just ordered some Goot Firekindom solderwick made in japan and will report back on it.
And some Kester solder flux.
nosaj

[Helmholtz]

And of course lead free requires around ~ 20°C higher temperature.

[g1]

And of course lead free requires around ~ 20°C higher temperature.

Yes. The lead-free solder wick seems to be about getting the solder melting faster, to avoid trace damage. That should also be beneficial for regular applications.
I just bought some regular stuff, which might outlast me, but in the future if I need some I'll buy the lead-free type.

[Delta362]

I typically use my trusty Soldapullt that I've had 29 years now. When I need to use braid (like on some of those Fender boards to prevent pads from lifting), I use the MG Chemicals Super Wick (both the 0.050 and 0.075 versions). The braid works well, but I tend to limit my usage of it because sometimes you need to extract a lot of solder and I use the braid for smaller amounts or for some SMT work. I've used the Soldapullt followed by the braid on occasion as well.

I also picked up a Hakko FR-301 a couple weeks ago, but haven't set it up to use just yet. Thought I'd have that as another tool on the bench.

[Tom Phillips]

...I also picked up a Hakko FR-301 a couple weeks ago, but haven't set it up to use just yet. Thought I'd have that as another tool on the bench.

I added a Hakko FR-301 to my kit a few years ago and it really works well for me when removing parts from a PCB.

[Delta362]

I added a Hakko FR-301 to my kit a few years ago and it really works well for me when removing parts from a PCB.

I'm hoping I get some good use out of it. I really need to read up on how to maintain it before I start to use it.

[Tom Phillips]

I'm hoping I get some good use out of it. I really need to read up on how to maintain it before I start to use it.

I concur. Knowing when and how to clean it is a key point as with many of the tools and instruments we use to service electronics. It's been well worth having in my opinion. I would like to make a proper bench stand for it. The thing they supply with it is a joke and the more advanced stand they sell for it is made as a generic part that will hold several different Hakko models. However, the FR-301 fits very loose. I returned the stand I bought and added a project to my to do list to fabricate a custom stand.

[Mick Bailey]

What's the difference between resin and rosin?

Both originate from the same source, but resin is usually semi-liquid, treacle, or a gum. Rosin is solid due to processing methods.

[Pedro Vecino]

I use solder wick almost all the time. I don't know if the difference between bare copper braid and tinned braid has been mentioned here. I exclusively use the latter. I have had terrible experiences with other wicks that are not even worth hanging clothes.
I buy it in France by tradition (tresse étamée BMJ). Of course, the good condition of the soldering iron tip is essential for it to work to the fullest of its capabilities. I never use added flux, rosin or similar substances.

https://www.reboul.fr/catalogue/outi...f_1001646.html

The BMJ trimetal tin is also the best I know of and I buy it there too.

https://www.reboul.fr/catalogue/outi...f_1025681.html

[rickmccl]

I think it would be nice to have a list of tips, tricks, brands ... that actually work

Desoldering braid never worked for me until one day I tried dipping it in flux. Now it is my go-to. I have spring-plunger suckers, and they are decent but I can never get a good enough seal to go 100%. if its a big pile I'll suck some up then get the braid. Another thing I have that I use sometimes is desoldering needles. they are a set of gauged stainless tubes. select the one that fits your through-holes and you can get out the stuff that is stuck down there by heating the needle and pushing. takes care of tricky cut leads too. Of course the first step before any of the tools is to heat up the joint and add a little new good solder to remind it what it is - adds in some flux and some pliability if you add good stuff to the lead-free. Maybe I'll look into a station sometime but the braid is completely adequate for me at this point.

I've just bought some of the MG Superwick mentioned earlier in the thread. I bought the kind with "No Clean" rosin, but I'm not really sure what that means. Haven't tried it yet, pre-fluxed just sounded like a great idea. I'm amused that the 10ft item comes on the same size spool as the 3ft.

[onedamnote]

I'm hoping I get some good use out of it. I really need to read up on how to maintain it before I start to use it.

I've killed one tip already, forgot to run cleaning wire before letting it cool, game over. Now after every 15 or so trigger pulls I'll pop off the collector and run the wire out the front of the tip a few times, tiny balls of solder will spit out, dumping the collector too. I've ran through about a half pound of solder so far. If I have a big area to slop up I'll use the mechanical sucker. For a good cleaning some people say turn up the heat, some use the drill bit which hakko has their own version. But any store that sells tools have them too. Jewelers hand drill.

[georage]

ive had some moderate success with chem-wik#4 from chemtronic. it has flux. when it does work, it was with a 45 watt iron with a broad dished out tip. when the iron is nice and hot, the solder is seen immediately absorbing into the braid and the trace is left clean. with a cooler 35 watt iron it barely works and sometimes flexing the braid and dragging it under the tip will clean off 90 percent of the solder. i also use the cheapest desolder pump available at 6bucks for 3 suckers. it barely works but its better than nothing. the hardest part about it is heating the joint with the iron and the somehow getting the sucker tip on the joint before it cools.

[catalin gramada]

Both originate from the same source, but resin is usually semi-liquid, treacle, or a gum. Rosin is solid due to processing methods.

You always may dip some colophonium resin in isopropyl alcohol. You may apply then with a syringe, a pen brush or dip you braid wire into it. It works also to tin the traces and so...