Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ampeg B-410 DC On Output Diagnostics Help

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Ampeg B-410 DC On Output Diagnostics Help

    So this one is showing 47 VDC at the output and the entire amp is drawing 1A of current on my variac.

    Unlike my other B-410 (with the overcurrent issue) this one does not have a polarity switch or an internal 6A fuse. However both of my B-410 share the same schematic which is actually factory taped to the chassis cover.

    The schematic is attached here.

    Please show me the way to diagnosing the DC on output issue.

    Thank you, MC

    ampeg_b115_b410_sch.pdf

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20230823_115520465.jpg
Views:	203
Size:	1.21 MB
ID:	985374

  • #2
    Using a bulb limiter I have 34 VDC on the output. I also see that on both sides of R224

    Comment


    • #3
      Strange reading at Q207? Should emitter be negative V?

      Q207 B = -33.3V, C = -33.4V, E = 33.3V

      Q206 B = 32V, C = 33.7V, E = 33.3V
      Q205 B = -34V, C = -34V, E = -33.3V
      Q204 B = 33V, C = 34V, E = 34V

      And I just noticed Q207 all 3 legs are loose on the board and each via pad is lifted. Going to need repair... Will report back.

      Comment


      • #4
        Q207 emitter should be at or near 0V. It directly connects to the amps output through coil L201.
        "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

        Comment


        • #5
          So I repaired the connections to Q207. I still have +35 VDC on the emitter. Would this indicate a bad Q207? The B and C are around -34 VDC.

          Comment


          • #6
            You have 35V on the Q207 emitter because that is what is at the output.
            But it is a PNP so the base can only be 0.7V more negative than emitter. So either Q207 is bad or something is mixed up with regard to it's pin-out.
            Originally posted by Enzo
            I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


            Comment


            • #7
              Respectfully, it would be beneficial for you to learn about transistor testing. There are a number of videos and tutorials on the web. Knowing how a transistor works and how to test one is essential if you are doing solid state repairs. Again, respectfully- there is no disrespect intended in this post.
              "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

              Comment


              • #8
                I removed Q207 (a NTE129) and it failed testing on the bench. I did both B to E and B to C ohm tests and diode tests and they both failed.

                I replaced it with the Q207 (a 610263-4) from my other amp (the one with the overcurrent). It tested good on the bench.

                DCV on the output is now 1.5 VDC

                This is with a bulb limiter

                Q207 B -50.5 V
                Q207 E 1.5 V
                Q207 C 0.847 V

                Something seems very off.

                Here is a pic of the replacement Q207. Pretty sure I have the orientation correct.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20230825_150921333.jpg
Views:	336
Size:	471.1 KB
ID:	985419
                Last edited by misterc57; 08-25-2023, 08:40 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by The Dude View Post
                  Respectfully, it would be beneficial for you to learn about transistor testing. There are a number of videos and tutorials on the web. Knowing how a transistor works and how to test one is essential if you are doing solid state repairs. Again, respectfully- there is no disrespect intended in this post.
                  I hear you and appreciate the message. I have watched videos and read up on this, and will continue to do so. I just have not done enough of these to feel confident yet. And when testing in circuit I feel completely lost.

                  Removed Q207 and did both B to E and B to C ohm tests and diode tests and they both failed. In both cases reversing leads looking for opens.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Are you sure you installed it correctly or that you don't have pins mixed up in your measurements? Look up the datasheet for the transistor and find the pinout. Assuming the transistor is good, those measurements make no sense at all.
                    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by The Dude View Post
                      Are you sure you installed it correctly or that you don't have pins mixed up in your measurements? Look up the datasheet for the transistor and find the pinout. Assuming the transistor is good, those measurements make no sense at all.
                      I have been trying to find a Fairchild 610263-4 pinout but no luck yet. I attached a picture of the installation (you will need to refresh the page). I installed it identical to how it sat in the other ampeg amp.

                      I double checked me readings. What should I be seeing for readings at Q207? I am thinking all legs should be close to around -34 V.

                      Thank you

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Q207 approximate readings should be E= 0V, B= -.5, C= some higher negative voltage.
                        "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by The Dude View Post
                          Q207 approximate readings should be E= 0V, B= -.5, C= some higher negative voltage.
                          What about Q206 where I had

                          Q206 B = 32V, C = 33.7V, E = 33.3V

                          I thought these two kind of mirrored each other.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Look at both of those transistors (Q206 and Q207). Both of the emitters tie to the output line that goes through L201 to the speaker. Therefore, both emitters must be at or near 0V.
                            "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Another round of readings with a bulb limiter

                              Q206 CBE 1.3V, 1.39V, 1.4V
                              Q207 CBE -51V, 0.8V, 1.4V

                              D204 C,A -51.1V, -51.1V
                              D205 C,A -1.3V, -1.4V

                              Q205 CBE -51.3V,

                              Suddenly, BOOM. C203 (330 uF 10V) explodes



                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X