I'm not sure how hard it is to reconnect that board to test. It doesn't look that bad but I could be wrong. If it's not too bad, I would start reconnecting things one at a time from the R13 end and checking that the DC voltage at R13/C14 junction stays up. Leave R24 disconnected till last.
Originally posted by Enzo
I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
I don't look forward to connecting a component, putting the board back, testing, removing the board, connect another component, putting the board back in, testing, 10 or 20 times. I will surely break at least one more pot like I did the gain control. But I probably will, but first I'm going to remove some more components with the board out.
But let's review:
I am reading about 22k ohms between r13/c14 junction and ground. Surely this should not be and it must be leaking current to ground which is throwing off my voltages past r13.
r13, r26, r9, and c9 are all lifted on one side, c14 and c17 are entirely removed.
From side 1 of r13 to side 1 of r26, r9, c9 I get 0 ohms. From side 1 of r13 to side 2 of r26, r9 and c9 I get OL. Doesn't that mean those circuit paths are ok?
So the c14 and c17 paths should be suspected?
I'm not rejecting the suggestion, I just want to try easier things before I get to that. Also I need my logical thinking confirmed or corrected.
PS those readings were in bright mode. In thick mode, r13 to ground changes to 10k ohms. All other readings are the same.
On Tuesday I removed the bright thick switch and each pot. Nothing changed. Thursday about quitting time, I lifted r27, r28, and r29. I know I was supposed to do one at a time, but I got impatient and didn't think anything would change. Well I started reading OL between r13 and ground. When I get back next week, I will put back each resistor and see who is the offender. I hope the offender just needs replacement. Then I will resolder each component and check each time between r13 and ground.
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