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Heathkit TA-17 solid state problems

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  • Heathkit TA-17 solid state problems

    Hey all,

    I'm calling in for help on this Heathkit TA-17 solid state amp from the 70's. The power amp section is giving me some trouble. The original complaint is that it was "getting hot." Considering that the 2n3772 output transistors are rated at 150W max, yes, it gets hot. The owner had a box full of parts, including lots of all of the transistors this thing has, caps and resistors. I changed out the massive electrolytic on the power supply and the 4000/50v coupling cap on to the speaker output because they were visibly leaking. Everything was working, but I started trying swapping transistors with some from the parts box to try to get the idle noise down when -
    R311 (should be 15r, was 33r) burned up. I found Q14 had shorted out. I replaced R311 with a 33r resistor and Q14 with a good testing one from the parts box. I now have low voltage measuring on the Emitter, and no voltage on the Collector. All voltages on the schematic are running about 4V higher that listed and were reading that way when it was working.

    Voltage at the last coupling cap + side is ~34VDC
    Voltage at the Base of Q14 is ~42VDC
    Voltage at the Collector of Q14 is 0VDC

    The output transistors are mounted on their own large heatsinks. I reapplied thermal compound to each one. The two thermal compensation diodes are also mounted to the heatsink of Q15 and test OK and are dropping ~1.5v.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Do you mean Q12? R311 and Q14 are not connected.
    Originally posted by Enzo
    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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    • #3
      R311 is connected to Q14 base. That said, it would be worth also checking Q12 and anything else in R311's path.
      "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

      Comment


      • #4
        Ok, I see. I was thinking that R311 burning was caused by a C-E short, but I guess it could have been a B-C short at Q14.
        If Q14 shorted R316 and R317 also need to be checked. And Q14 collector only sits at around 0.5V so you would need to be on the right meter range to have that register.
        Originally posted by Enzo
        I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


        Comment


        • #5
          If Q14 was damaged, probably Q13 was as well, maybe D602/3 as well. A simple diode test will confirm if they are OK.
          They will read either OK or short/open.
          You are looking for around 40volts on point O.
          You requires qbout 1.4 volts between the base of Q13 and the base of Q14 to run.
          D602/603 provide the junction voltage and R311 the bias on voltage ... assuming you have the original type RCA transistors fitted.
          Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
          If you can't fix it, I probably can.

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          • #6
            Thanks all-

            All diodes test good. I did replace resistors 311, 316, 317, capacitors 304, 307. The problem is that point O should read about 40V, but is at ~34V. I'll take a look at Q12 and Q13 today. The base of Q16/collector of Q14 was reading ~.6V when everything was working, now it's at 0- I'll double check my meter on uV. I did disconnect C304, 305, 306 to make sure there wasn't a leaky cap pulling voltage down. Is the 0V because Q14 isn't on when the emitter voltage is less than the base voltage? If not, where does that voltage come from- R317?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by TASBrendan View Post
              ...where does that voltage come from- R317?
              Through the collector channel, the emitter of Q12, which must be in operating mode.

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              • #8
                It's back! Indeed Q13 was dead. Not short, but just dead. Perhaps it's been a problem all along- all the voltages have settled down now where they were all reading high when it was working last.
                Thanks everyone!

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