Anyone on here have any experience of these? I'm at a loss. The output valves are red plating, tried new set, same problem. Checked HT voltage, 470V. By my calculation each valve is dissipating 15.4W at idle in a 6v6 that is rated at 14W max. Have i missed something or has someone designed a valve destruction machine?
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Budda superdrive V40
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Is a schematic available? Is it fixed bias, cathode bias? For fixed bias check the bias supply voltage at pin5 of power tubes, for cathode bias check for shorted or leaky cathode capacitor at power tube cathodes.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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From memory, these amplifiers use quite an odd phase invertor coupling arrangement.
If the phase splitter fails or has a faulty valve the grid voltages can go to an unstable level and cause this issue.
I would remove the phase splitter valve and check again.Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
If you can't fix it, I probably can.
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Originally posted by Wakculloch View PostThe phase splitter seems to be just a voltage divider followed by an inverting stage.
A plate-to-cathode voltage of 435V with 6V6s certainly is excessive..
Redplating at idle indicates abuse and short tube life.
You might try the JJ 6V6 S with a larger (e.g.330R) cathode resistor.
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Yes, I agree with raising the cathode resistor value. But, first check the cathode bypass cap as g1 suggested. Raising the value of the resistor won't help if the parallel cap is shorted or leaky."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Lifted the cathode cap and voltage is constant. Checked the phase splitter resistor values and it is the same as the Superdrive 80 model; the schematic is on this site.
Drove it to clipping level and cathode voltage increases to 52V, so it may be cathode biased but it's not class A.
I'm reluctant to change the cathode resistor. Amps shouldn't need modding to fit the valves they were designed for, but if that's the only way to get it up and running it may be the only option.
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It is not unusual to see cathode biased guitar amps running at 110% PD.
But what would make me nervous is redplating at idle.
And yes, the amp is running in class AB like most cathode biased PP amps.
Full class A would mean much lower B+ and output.- Own Opinions Only -
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The amp would have worked fine when it left the factory, so I'd be reluctant to make any component changes. One thing to look for is to scope for ultrasonic oscillation, which can cause excessive current draw where there is no other sign of component failure. Even poor lead dress can cause this.
What's the B+ with the tubes removed, and also the heater voltage? If the current draw is reduced, you may see an increase from 470v. Checking the heater voltage gives a good indication whether the PT is correctly configured, or whether it's a 230v amp running in a region with high mains (ours is usually 248v or more, which raises the B+ considerably).
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostIt is not unusual to see cathode biased guitar amps running at 110% PD.
But what would make me nervous is redplating at idle......
Edit: Also remember to subtract cathode voltage from plate voltage when looking at tube plate voltage limits.
Last edited by The Dude; 03-13-2024, 11:32 PM."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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