One of my regular customers sent me their Ampeg SVT-CL amp that had shut down several times on stage.
I powered it up on the bench, speaker connected, and found both upper and lower power tubes Bias LED's were RED and GRN. AC Mains current/wattage was nominal (2A/220W @ 120VAC. less with the fan unplugged). I was unable to get the RED led to go out on both upper/lower tube halves without getting GRN to go out. RED came on first. So, pulled the two chassis out of the cabinet, and removed the hold-down clamps, re-connected the preamp to the power amp chassis and stood both vertical, as has been my practice to go thru sorting tubes for getting a balanced matched set of tubes.
I found two of the tubes in this particular set (which hadn't been replaced since I set it up back in 2013) weren't matching up with the rest of the set. I had just replaced a full set of J/J KT88's on a different amp of theirs and did have several in that set that might be suitable to work with this set (ARS supplier, JJ/Tesla KT88's). After a little effort, I had cobbled a working set using a pair of the J/J KT88's. Ran the amp under Burst Pink Noise driving speaker for a couple hours, finding current levels of the six tubes remaining steady.
I powered down, cooled the tubes off, removed them, then put the two chassis back into the cabinet, after installing the hold-down clamps and the revised set of tubes in place. When I had the amp reassembled, I powered back up, and found, to my amazement, it was now drawing an additional 20W (fan disconnected) than it had when the chassis's were vertical during tube matching. AND, like before, I was unable to get the RED LED's off without having the GRN LED's also go out.
I started over this morning, verifying in Vertical orientation, all worked fine. Laying the two chassis down on the bench horizontal, but not installed into the chassis, with the tube clamps installed, I was back to this RED LED condition. I removed the clamps, put the tubes back in, and still had this RED LED condition. Stand the chassis' vertical, problem is gone.
This I've never seen before.
I'm about to install a new matched Sextet of J/J 6550 tubes to see if that exhibits this same behavior. I've been using the Chassis' standing up vertical to have access to the cathode resistors as test points for years and have ALWAYS ended up with a working matched set of tubes that doesn't exhibit this behavior. Guessing the age of these tubes, being over ten years old may be involved.
Anyone ever seen this before?
I powered it up on the bench, speaker connected, and found both upper and lower power tubes Bias LED's were RED and GRN. AC Mains current/wattage was nominal (2A/220W @ 120VAC. less with the fan unplugged). I was unable to get the RED led to go out on both upper/lower tube halves without getting GRN to go out. RED came on first. So, pulled the two chassis out of the cabinet, and removed the hold-down clamps, re-connected the preamp to the power amp chassis and stood both vertical, as has been my practice to go thru sorting tubes for getting a balanced matched set of tubes.
I found two of the tubes in this particular set (which hadn't been replaced since I set it up back in 2013) weren't matching up with the rest of the set. I had just replaced a full set of J/J KT88's on a different amp of theirs and did have several in that set that might be suitable to work with this set (ARS supplier, JJ/Tesla KT88's). After a little effort, I had cobbled a working set using a pair of the J/J KT88's. Ran the amp under Burst Pink Noise driving speaker for a couple hours, finding current levels of the six tubes remaining steady.
I powered down, cooled the tubes off, removed them, then put the two chassis back into the cabinet, after installing the hold-down clamps and the revised set of tubes in place. When I had the amp reassembled, I powered back up, and found, to my amazement, it was now drawing an additional 20W (fan disconnected) than it had when the chassis's were vertical during tube matching. AND, like before, I was unable to get the RED LED's off without having the GRN LED's also go out.
I started over this morning, verifying in Vertical orientation, all worked fine. Laying the two chassis down on the bench horizontal, but not installed into the chassis, with the tube clamps installed, I was back to this RED LED condition. I removed the clamps, put the tubes back in, and still had this RED LED condition. Stand the chassis' vertical, problem is gone.
This I've never seen before.
I'm about to install a new matched Sextet of J/J 6550 tubes to see if that exhibits this same behavior. I've been using the Chassis' standing up vertical to have access to the cathode resistors as test points for years and have ALWAYS ended up with a working matched set of tubes that doesn't exhibit this behavior. Guessing the age of these tubes, being over ten years old may be involved.
Anyone ever seen this before?
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