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Marshall TSL 122 NOT bias drift.

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  • #16
    Yes I agree, but F.P.R. probably wouldn't sell as well as V.P.R.
    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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    • #17
      I've noticed something now. When I turn the standby off and measure the AC before the rectifier, it starts out at around 100 Volts AC and climbs to ~ 204 volts. Con19 goes to con 1 on the back panel. It sends the signal to the Emulated Line Out. R71 reads 274 ohms. The voltages on either side of it reads 259.4 Volts DC

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      • #18
        Seems there's something wrong with the Standby switch.
        Looks as it neither opens nor closes completely.
        What happens if you jumper it with a wire?
        - Own Opinions Only -

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        • #19
          I will certainly do that in a moment. And there is a board that the mains switch and standby switch connect to. With a couple of capacitors on it. I at first thought it could be those caps so I changed them. No joy. I will hardwire across the standby and see whqt I get them report back.

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          • #20
            So I jumpered the yellow HT wires on the standby switch.... Aaaaaand I now have ~530 volts DC on pins 3 and 4 of the power tubes. R4 and R5 in the PI are still shorts in circuit, so I think there is still a problem with the V.P.R./Output Mute circuit though. But thank you for pointing me toward the Standby switch.

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            • #21
              SW3 on page 2 shorts R4 and R5 for full power.
              - Own Opinions Only -

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              • #22
                Gotchya. It never changes, no matter the switch position. Also, I took this Standby switch out of the circuit, and the only thing it measures on both sets of pins, is Open (OL) in the "OFF" position, and a direct short in the "ON" position...

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                • #23
                  Ok. I measured across the pins, bottom left and top right.... Found the resistance. Makes sense as that is how the dude had the wires connected to said standby switch... Now I just have to wait for my parts to get here. We used to have a really sweet local parts house... NOT Radio Shack....lol but the dude was done I guess so he sold everything to someone. Now there are no more local parts houses. Lame. Lol. Anyway, I will report back once I have changed the parts and tested the amp.

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                  • #24
                    Well... The switch and the driver for the relay came in and I changed them both and voltages looked good. Nice and solid... Put the tubes in it and powered up the amp... It sounded pretty good for a couple of seconds, and then the smell. Looking at the back of the amp, the 2 right power tubes were red plating. Dammit... Lol! Now I gotsta repair the bias circuit. Lol. This amp is a gigantic pain in the ass. I think I would rather repair a Mesa....lolololol

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                    • #25
                      Ok, so now I'm noticing that the bias voltage on pin 5 is reading around -50 volts DC....aaaaand when I adjust the bias pots in the back, the voltage does not change at all... I can't get it to go lower. This amp truly is a pain in the ass. The connectors from the main board to the bias board, all pins have continuity. Any ideas?

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                      • #26
                        check everything in the bias supply and the 4, 5.6ks . i have seen those bias pots go bad. also check C6/ C7 after the PI tube . Have you pulled the Pcb's out ? 90% of these ive repaired had a lot of cracked solder joints

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                        • #27
                          Hey man. Thanks for the reply. I checked C6 and C7... They read open. I'm gonna lift a leg on them Tomorrow and check them with a cap tester. This amp has had so damn many things wrong with it. I did check and reflow all cold solder joints. The foot switch area was most egregious. Nothing looks like a cold joint in the bias circuit. I reflowed it anyway. Now I have (looking at the back of the amp) -39 volts DC on the left pair and -50 volts on the right. The left side will adjust, but not the right. I replaced C36 and C37 in the bias circuit. All the 5.6k resistors measure good. The 220k resistor (R67 and R69) are reading a little low. (150k and 117k).... I'm gonna measure the pot on the right and see if that is it.

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                          • #28
                            Ok, got the bias sorted.... apparently the left pot adjusts the tubes on the right??? Weird... Also, when the Standby switch is engaged (sound off), I'm reading ~259 volts DC at pins 4 and 5. When I disengage the Standby (sound on) I'm reading ~ 530 Volts DC.... Do these voltages seem a bit high?

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                            • #29
                              Not pin 5. Sorry. Been up since 4:30... Definitely pin 3 and 4 I have ~ 259 off and ~530 on. Stupid being tired. Well....time for a 5 hour energy. Lol

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                              • #30

                                That does seem a bit high, but what did you set the idle currents at?
                                Originally posted by Enzo
                                I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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