Hi All,
Firstly, can anyone tell me, with conviction, whether the classic 30 is Class A or Class AB?
Also, generally if it is Class AB it would be sensible to adjust the bias when replacing the output valves. The original circuit design uses fixed bias, but I'm considering changing this to Steve Ahola's adjustable circuit and maybe adding some 1 Ohm resistos to the cathode grounds where there are some jumpers on the board.
Has anyone done this and have you any current values that ran well with specific valve manufacturers glass.
I've had this amp for years and never bothered with this and changed valves - maybe it's not even worth doing so I thought I'd ask for your opinions.
Thanks
Phil
Firstly, can anyone tell me, with conviction, whether the classic 30 is Class A or Class AB?
Also, generally if it is Class AB it would be sensible to adjust the bias when replacing the output valves. The original circuit design uses fixed bias, but I'm considering changing this to Steve Ahola's adjustable circuit and maybe adding some 1 Ohm resistos to the cathode grounds where there are some jumpers on the board.
Has anyone done this and have you any current values that ran well with specific valve manufacturers glass.
I've had this amp for years and never bothered with this and changed valves - maybe it's not even worth doing so I thought I'd ask for your opinions.
Thanks
Phil
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