Fender Hot Rod Deluxe volume pot replacement

[mauricej]

I have a fender hot rod deluxe and I love it but its ridiculously loud. I understand you can replace the volume pot to better control the volume levels from 0-2.

Currently I have the stock a250k pot for the master volume.

What could I use to have better control at lower settings on the dial and ideally have a usuable home usage level higher up the dial (eg what is currently 2 to become 4).

[Jazz P Bass]

I would aaume that you are dealing with the 'Clean' channel.
Yes, the Volume pot is 250K.
It may be easier to change out R9 (220K) to a higher value.

The Master control only works with the 'Drive' channel.

It's really something how Fender uses this goofy volume setup on a lot of there newer amps.

At 3.5 to 4, the amp is at full clean power.

[diydidi]

Insert a pot between preamp out and power amp in as sort of a master volume.
This can be done with two jack to jack cables and installing the pot in a little "break-out" box. I used an Altoids tin.

[soundguruman]

I have a fender hot rod deluxe and I love it but its ridiculously loud. I understand you can replace the volume pot to better control the volume levels from 0-2.

Currently I have the stock a250k pot for the master volume.

What could I use to have better control at lower settings on the dial and ideally have a usuable home usage level higher up the dial (eg what is currently 2 to become 4).

See, to most people they don't care, or recognize the difference. Or they would not be bothered to spend the effort and money.

The original controls don't have a very wide range of adjustment. They are just consumer grade.
Professional grade will give better adjustment range. There is a huge difference between the two.

Yes it's a really big difference.

The pro grade is way more expensive. It should be installed with flying leads attached to the circuit board.
The pro grade is not a PC mount control. (unless you order it that way, and wait for it)

Getting the pro grade may require a lead time, because many of these better controls are not stocked by dealers.
You need to get the data sheets and find what your part number will be...

It takes research to get it just right.

It's a specially developed taper, that is specific to specialized audio control. It's "not" a regular audio taper, or linear taper, etc...
The "regular" consumer grade tapers won't work like this.

Basically, you get about as much as you pay for.
Install cheap controls, and you will get a cheap result.

http://www.tubesandmore.com/products...d%3DAlessandro

http://www.precisionelectronics.com/0-40a.html

http://www.amazon.com/PEC-Guitar-Pot...WKP8GPEVPSMKH5

http://www.tubesandmore.com/products...%20Electronics



You need to measure the available mounting area, and the hole diameter.
You may be challenged to find pro grade controls that will fit in the available space.

Many times you will need to trim the shaft length. OR make sure that the shaft ordered fits your existing knobs.

The knob itself:
On a pro grade control, the shaft is frequently stainless steel.
The knobs with brass set screws will not hold. You need steel set screws.
The genuine Fender knobs have steel set screws. Other cheap knobs do not.
So double check the set screws or the knobs may fall off...brass set screws won't hold them.

Then, it's not as easy as it looks.

But it has a reward.
The pro grade controls work way way better than the stock ones. The adjustment range is smooth and consistent all the way from one to ten.

That's what you want, really really.
But manufacturer is not installing that on stock amp. Costs way too much.
Distributor is not stocking it. Costs too much. And very few people care enough to buy it.

But if it were My amp, I would do it. It would be worth it to me.

[Fragger]

Soundguruman, what would be wrong with this pot., model #: 0047540000? 250K 15A Audio Taper Snap-In Potentiometer (Solid Shaft) | Amplifier Controls & Electronics Amplifier Parts | FenderŪ Amplifier Parts

[soundguruman]

Soundguruman, what would be wrong with this pot., model #: 0047540000? 250K 15A Audio Taper Snap-In Potentiometer (Solid Shaft) | Amplifier Controls & Electronics Amplifier Parts | FenderŪ Amplifier Parts

There is nothing wrong with it.
Just won't have the range of a professional grade control.

What you are trying to do is expand the control range from 0-10,
so it will be spread more evenly in volume.
Instead of almost full volume at "2..." which is typical of cheap controls.

So, fitting the expensive control will be more trouble, but it can be done.
Then the control range will be evenly spread, so to me it's worth it.

I would try to fit this one:
Amazon.com : PEC Guitar Amp Potentiometer, 250K Audio : Electric Guitar Electronics : Musical Instruments

http://www.amazon.com/PEC-Guitar-Pot...DCHZBFEXQCDXBT


take out the stock control.
Solder leads to the board, hook up the pro control, if it will fit.
The 1/4 inch shaft will take the stock knobs, it looks like.
Just wondering if there is enough room. I would try it at least.

[km6xz]

Unfortunately, no one has addressed your issue. The problem you are experiencing is due to the 15A taper of the original pot. It has a faster initial change in value per degree of rotation at the low end and becomes more linear at the 1/3 of rotation point. The Treble control has a more linear change 250k pot, with a 30A taper curve. Just swap the treble and volume pots for a more gradual volume change and no cost. The quality of the Fender pots is not problem, they are very good, better than other brands and keep the amp value up compared to kludging in another pot that will lower its value.

[soundguruman]

You can change the taper...
but another cheap control just moves the dead spot from one place on the control to another....

That's why I am talking about a special taper, that's made to solve the problem.

You get what you pay for, I guess. The good one is $10-$25.
The stock one is 2.50 - 6.00.
So, you really got to want it if you buy it.

The difference however is large.
I would rather build an amp with the good ones, although it's going to cost $100-$150 more. It's like a whole new amp.
I can dial tones that I couldn't dial with the stock controls. The sweet spot was too small on the stock control.

The difference to a non professional player - they probably wouldn't notice a difference.
So it would not be worth it to them, I admit.

Use the stock one in a non pro application for sure. I wouldn't argue that.

[cyclone]

PEC pots are neat but the form factor is totally wrong for that amp. There's nothing worse than an amateurish repair like that. Even if the pot taper is "better", you have devalued the customers equipment as was mentioned above.

Thats just inexperience at work. Bodging a giant terminal lug pot in where a small board mounted one belongs. I'd go jihad all over your a$$ if it was my amp.

[km6xz]

You can change the taper...
but another cheap control just moves the dead spot from one place on the control to another....

His problem, his only problem, was described and you ignored that to push a $25 pot that will not make any sound difference and just lower the resale value of the amp.

That's why I am talking about a special taper, that's made to solve the problem.

What special taper? Industry spec'd tapers can be selected based on preference, without spending extra money needlessly.

The difference however is large.
I would rather build an amp with the good ones, although it's going to cost $100-$150 more. It's like a whole new amp.
I can dial tones that I couldn't dial with the stock controls. The sweet spot was too small on the stock control.

You have to be kidding!

What is wrong with the Fender pot? No one else ever complains about them except you and you offer no evidence that they will adversely impact the sound or play-ability. You are mis-informing those who come here to seek advice. Name a person, in a proper double blind test, who can hear the difference between a Fender pot and a $25 woo-woo pot with cryogenic treated goose fat lubricant. There is no one.
I have done enough proper tests that destroy the claims made for many trick, expensive fairy-dust cables, caps, connectors, power cords, etc and embarrassed a lot of golden ears by exposing the nonsense.
You ignored the OP's interest by pushing him to get a pot that is totally unsuited to the application and never addressed his only concern. I suppose we need to put a red "*" next to your posts, warning those who might believe a higher post count poster, to take all claims as being potentially dangerous to their budget and functioning of their unit.

[soundguruman]

PEC pots are neat but the form factor is totally wrong for that amp. There's nothing worse than an amateurish repair like that. Even if the pot taper is "better", you have devalued the customers equipment as was mentioned above.

Thats just inexperience at work. Bodging a giant terminal lug pot in where a small board mounted one belongs. I'd go jihad all over your a$$ if it was my amp.

There is nothing wrong with using a different control, if it gives the result you want.

These come in several sizes, not just giant ones...

It does not harm or devalue the amp, that's a load of horse crap.

It's not a repair, it's a modification, and an upgrade.

If it serves to correct a problem there is nothing bad about it. Why not?

Inexperienced? I have a hell of a lot more experience than YOU do, that's a good bet.
I've repaired more amps than you have "seen." And, I've probably been doing it since before you wore diapers.

You don't even rate. Your attacks are just a load of laughable BS.

"I'd go jihad all over your a$$"
You have little to worry about, cause I don't repair amps for jerks.
It would be a waste of my time and effort.

But, if you WANT to go jihad, bring it on, fathead.

[cyclone]

Plus, PEC pots do NOT have a smooth feel to them and customers perceive them as being lower quality. They don't last any longer than Alphas either and you can't clean them as they are sealed. They are made by magic canadian elves in the Great White North though, maybe that makes them special?

They are so physically large that I had to change my point to point layout in the one amp I built with them. I agree the taper is a little bit better but it has no effect on my ability to dial in the same tone. My customers agree and like the feel of the alphas better. And I charge them a lot less!!

[J M Fahey]

Inexperienced? I have a hell of a lot more experience than YOU do, that's a good bet.
I've repaired more amps than you have "seen." And, I've probably been doing it since before you wore diapers.

You don't even rate. Your attacks are just a load of laughable BS.

I don't repair amps for jerks.

bring it on, fathead.

Funny , none of us wore diapers in 2011 when YOU were posting DESPERATE noob questions asking for help on amps you were *trying* to repair, with no success.
You couldn't even READ SCHEMATICS:

at BassDogs.com
SOUNDGURUMAN says:
Thread: 5500 HAS EXPLODING CAPACITORS, (any mod or parts to prevent this?)
07-21-2011, 09:40 PM #1
Yo dogs,
Is there any Hartke genius(es) that have a mod for the 5500 power amp module? Parts be esplodin and stuff!
This is a HA3500 power amp board V1.2
Does anybody stock these transistors, or do you just use NTE whatever...?
C 3198
C 4370
A 1837
A 1266
So far I got 11 parts on this board that burned, is this normal? But all the outputs are good. Seems like the PNP final driver shorted and took everything previous out.
Is there any replacement P amp modules, or are you on your own out there? Any insight appreciated, thanks.

So:
1) you referred to the problems as "Parts be esplodin and stuff!"
Real Tech talk, huh? The Science blinds us

2) you asked for "a Mod" to stop "EXPLODING CAPACITORS"
How about selecting a 120V tap if you plug into a 120V wall socket, huh?
Or 220V into 220V and so on

3) you google "mystery transistors"

C 3198
C 4370
A 1837
A 1266

and are desperate enough to try NTE stuff (usually not an exact equivalent and 5X more expensive) , because you IGNORE that convention in Japanese transistors is not to write the "2S" at the beginning, because itīs a given.
Everybody knows that
So you should have searched for:
2SC 3198
2SC 4370
2SA 1837
2SA 1266
and in a jiffy you have price, suppliers, datasheet, etc.

But what would an IGNORANT know?

Just to show this was not a flunk, I have tons more of soundguruman IGNORANCE proof.

[soundguruman]

There is nothing incorrect, it's all accurate.

FYI the Hartkes repaired years ago with NTE transistors?
They are all still working just fine.
Used several times a month in professional shows, they just keep working.

So if you were considering NTE replacements in a Hartke: They work.

PS the caps do explode. But you can put in better ones.

The "2S" designation is not on the installed parts, from the factory.
The numbers I gave were original factory installed part numbers from the circuit board. They do not say "2S."

The "2S" is not on the factory schematics either....
hartke 5500.pdf

So what's your point?
The part number I gave were correct, and the replacements worked just fine, for years.
So what's your point?

Other than more hot air?

[km6xz]

You just confirmed Juan's point, the transistor designations do not have to appear because they are understood to be what they are. No working tech would be unaware of that.
For someone who insists of fairy-dust parts, using NTE is pretty hypocritical when they are not the same as the original and are not guaranteed to be anything but a generally serviceable part in non-critical circuits and "close enough" for many applications. A Hartke is not too critical except the power out devices which which used to be MOSFETS and later were switched to lower cost BJT. They are run right on the ragged edge of SOA with too little heatsink to handle extended thermal stress so that would be the last place for a general purpose hobby replacement transistor of unknown type.
No one has it out for you, but you invite hostility by posting ill-advised recommendations as the only suitable solution, or taking positions that are clearly not based on experience or technical education. You should think twice or thrice before posting much of what you post. You have contradicted every very experienced, successful tech and engineer on this forum without any evidence that you had any more insight or knowledge than the people who are asking for assistance.