Just wondering how many of you recognized the input stage is actually an obsured version of input impedance bootstrapping?
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Reduce treble in Fender Frontman 212r clean channel with circuit mod
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I wouldn't worry about what the caps are made of. And I would bet nobody else here thinks you should concern yourself with that, either. Use what you got. That's kinda how we are here.
Justin"Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
"Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
"All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -
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Originally posted by Justin Thomas View PostI wouldn't worry about what the caps are made of. And I would bet nobody else here thinks you should concern yourself with that, either. Use what you got. That's kinda how we are here.
Justin
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Good catch
Not only that, itīs an active filter high pass cutting everything below some 66 Hz, what the Doctor ordered to cut thump and subsonic without affecting Guitar sound.
Frequency is setup by C3 and R4 , place those values in: RC pad corner frequency upper and lower cutoff frequency calculation filter calculate time constant tau RC voltage power calculator capacitance resistance - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin which is a simple and useful RC frequency calculator.
Above 66 Hz Guitar "sees" C3-R4 ; C2 not so much and R5 not at all, because R5 is bootstrapped so in theory itīs infinite ohms.
Net input impedance is R4 = 510k which is fine.
Below 66 Hz U1a stops receiving sound (because C3-R4 attenuate it) , it stops bootstrapping and C2-R5 (same value as C3-R4 so same frequency=66 Hz) get into the act.
Net result is flat frequency response and 510k impedance above 66Hz and 250k plus 12 dB/oct cutoff below 66 Hz.
U1a also provides "plain" gain, [(R7+R6)/R8]+1 , about 4X which is shown on the schematic.
So U1a is "dual function": highpass and gain . Nice and smart
This input stage is an SS Fender staple, youīll see it all over the place, and comes from some late model Music Man ..... which makes it "Family" of course.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Originally posted by J M Fahey View PostGood catch
Not only that, itīs an active filter high pass cutting everything below some 66 Hz, what the Doctor ordered to cut thump and subsonic without affecting Guitar sound.
Frequency is setup by C3 and R4 , place those values in: RC pad corner frequency upper and lower cutoff frequency calculation filter calculate time constant tau RC voltage power calculator capacitance resistance - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin which is a simple and useful RC frequency calculator.
Above 66 Hz Guitar "sees" C3-R4 ; C2 not so much and R5 not at all, because R5 is bootstrapped so in theory itīs infinite ohms.
Net input impedance is R4 = 510k which is fine.
Below 66 Hz U1a stops receiving sound (because C3-R4 attenuate it) , it stops bootstrapping and C2-R5 (same value as C3-R4 so same frequency=66 Hz) get into the act.
Net result is flat frequency response and 510k impedance above 66Hz and 250k plus 12 dB/oct cutoff below 66 Hz.
U1a also provides "plain" gain, [(R7+R6)/R8]+1 , about 4X which is shown on the schematic.
So U1a is "dual function": highpass and gain . Nice and smart
This input stage is an SS Fender staple, youīll see it all over the place, and comes from some late model Music Man ..... which makes it "Family" of course.
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Originally posted by Dave H View PostOK
[ATTACH=CONFIG]45586[/ATTACH]
Letīs see:
U1a also provides "plain" gain, [(R7+R6)/R8]+1 , about 4X which is shown on the schematic.
Net result is flat frequency response and 510k impedance above 66Hz and 250k plus 12 dB/oct cutoff below 66 Hz.
Oh, and 12 dB/oct slope below that. Check.
Nice to have old Math and methods confirmed by fancy modern toolsJuan Manuel Fahey
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Originally posted by Toosour View PostHey gang, I found this thread while searching for a way to tame the treble in our Fender Frontman 212r amplifier. I'm digging up this thread to add some photos of the mod suggested by JM Fahey in post #10. If someone else wants to do the mod, these photos may help. I did the mod and think it is worthwhile. The amp runs much warmer and is not so shrill. BTW just removing the bright cap does not change much. A very subtle difference. The warmth cap is what made the big difference . Since the mod is fairly straightforward, I won't add anything to his instructions from #10. The only thing I did different is to put the capacitors onto the switches instead of the circuit board. Cheers, David
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42495[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42496[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42497[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42498[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42499[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42500[/ATTACH]
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